A few years ago, the Peking duck dinner at Chinatown’s BBQ King House was the deal of the decade, feeding four at a cool $28.88. At this price, a whole duck was sliced, pulled and hacked three ways — crispy skin sandwiched between steamed buns, its meat stir-fried, the bones left to fortify a soup. Now that’s resourcefulness, ensuring none of the bird goes to waste. Plus it costs less than one seared duck breast entree from a downtown restaurant three miles up the road.
What got me about this deal was, inexplicably, the bonus salt-and-pepper shrimp. Just plopped down incongruously in the middle of your three-course duck dinner, as if the chef cooked an extra plate by accident and decided,
“Ah, you keep it.”
That to me captures the cognitive dissonance that’s Chinatown, which for cultural reasons, has always served as this Cheap Eater’s spiritual home. The area surrounding Wentworth and Archer might as well operate in its own time-space continuum, where the trends of the...
Read more