To make good gnocchi, you have to be there

(Deb Lindsey / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST)

  • To make good gnocchi, you have to be there

    To make good gnocchi, you have to be there

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    Kapnos, where beasts meet fire

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  • The secret to good frozen drinks

    The secret to good frozen drinks

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FALLS CHURCH, VA - JULY 2: 2941 Restaurant Chef Bertrand Chemel's Gnocchi with Rosemary Cream, Garlic Chips, Peas, Pea Shoots and Mangalitsa Lardo photographed in Falls Church, VA. Photo by Deb Lindsey/For The Washington Post)

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VIENNA, VA, JANUARY 9, 2013: Winter salad of shaved cucumber, radish and endive with lemon vinaigrette. Dishware courtesy of Crate & Barrel. (Photo by ASTRID RIECKEN For The Washington Post)

Free Range on Food is a forum for discussion of all things culinary. Join us every Wednesday at noon.

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Call for readers’ best tomato recipes

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Two contrasting albariños, two inexpensive rosés and a high-end white from Greece.

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How to make the lightest gnocchi

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Order angst at Teddy & the Bully Bar

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Alan Popovsky’s newest presidential homage could use a better dish-delivery system.

St. Regis uncorks Decanter

WASHINGTON, DC - JULY 3: Squid burger at the Decanter restaurant located inside the St. Regis Hotel on July 3, 2013 in Washington, DC. Decanter features Mediterranean cuisine and flavors from the South of France, Spain, Turkey, and Italy.(Photo by Amanda Voisard/For the Washington Post)

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Replacement of Ducasse’s Adour puts a new emphasis on the bottle.

Maximum flavor, minimal calories

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Dish: There are lovely choices on Westend Bistro’s Bistro Light menu.

Enough’s too much at Mi Cocina

WASHINGTON, D.C., JUNE 20, 2013: Waiter Sammy Padilla serves guacamole and chile posole at Mi Cocina, a new Mexican restaurant in Chevy Chase. (Photo by Astrid Riecken For The Washington Post)

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The Texas chain lands in Chevy Chase with overly attentive service and eye-popping calorie counts.

Sushi rolls, hold the small fry

ALEXANDRIA, VA - JUNE 12: Japanese Sandwiches, as prepared at The Sushi Bar in Alexandria, Virginia, on June 12, 2013 include spicy tuna, avocado, sea scallops, kiwi, mango tobiko sauce and red beets. (Photo by Maddie Meyer/The Washington Post)

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No children under 18 are allowed at Sushi Bar in Alexandria.