In the bayou country of Louisiana, the hubbub of New Orleans' Carnival gives way to traditions at least as old as those of the hectic city to the south. The centerpiece event is Courier du Mardi Gras , a dawn to dusk trail ride that takes maskers through the wetland communities of Cajun country on Mardi Gras in search of ingredients for a monumental, communal gumbo.
Accompanied by bands of accordionists and fiddlers, revelers on horseback collect chickens from farmhouses en route. The concluding celebrations -- in the streets of Mamou and remote honky tonks -- represent the world's greatest gathering of the region's indigenous musicians and folklorists.
Children fold their hands in prayer, rather than wave them frantically for beads. They fall on their knees to recite the "Our Father", not "throw me something mister!" It's Mardi Gras in Vacherie-Gheens, about one hour west of New Orleans and residents are keeping alive an old tradition. Reminiscent of initiation or fertility rites, possibly tied to ancient Celtic traditions, males (who must be at least fifteen) wear masks, costumes with bells and carry willow whips on their Mardi Gras run. Piled into trucks, they look for children and a sprinkling of young girls who must ask for forgiveness with cries of "pardon! pardon!" and recitations of prayers. Children are taunted and tapped with whips, before the elders race away in search of more penitents who may be concocting elaborate hiding plans to outsmart the whippers.