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Steak and kidney pie

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Steak and kidney pie
A steak and kidney pie, as served in a pub
Type Savoury pie
Place of origin Britain
Serving temperature Hot
Main ingredients

Steak and kidney pie is a popular British dish. It is a savoury pie filled principally with a mixture of diced beef , diced kidney (which may be beef , lamb , veal , or pork ) and onion . Its contents are generally similar to those of steak and kidney puddings .

History and ingredients [ edit ]

In modern times the fillings of steak and kidney pies and steak and kidney puddings are generally identical, [1] but until the mid-19th century the norms were steak puddings and kidney pies. [2] [n 1] Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle , 1826, records a large dish of kidney pies in the window of a baker near Smithfield , [4] and ten years later a kidney-pie stand outside what is now the Old Vic , emitting sparks every time the vendor opened his portable oven to hand a hot kidney pie to a customer. [5]

"Rump Steak and Kidney Pie" was served in a Liverpool restaurant in 1847, [6] and in 1863 a Birmingham establishment offered "Beef Steak and Kidney Pie". [7] But until the 1870s kidney pies are far more frequently mentioned in the newspapers, including one thrown at a policeman during an affray in Knightsbridge in 1862, [8] and an assault case in Lambeth in 1867 when a customer attacked a waitress for bringing her a beef pie instead of a kidney one. [9] By the mid-1870s steak and kidney pies were as often mentioned as kidney ones. Both appeared in verse of the period:

     You say you are too sad to eat!
          Just hand your plate and try
     This steak and kidney pie, my love?
          This steak and kidney pie.
                                        From Fun , 1875 [10]

     I've eaten as much as a man could eat,
          I've gone through a very remarkable feat;
     From the twopenny tart to the kidney pie,
          I've swallowed as much as I could, have I.
                                        From The Zoo (1875), by B. C. Stephenson and Arthur Sullivan [11]

According to the cookery writer Jane Grigson , the first published recipe for the combination of steak and kidney was in 1859 in Mrs Beeton 's Household Management . [12] [n 2] Beeton used it in a pudding rather than a pie. She had been sent the recipe by a correspondent in Sussex in south-east England, and Grigson speculates that it was until then a regional dish, unfamiliar to cooks in other parts of Britain. [12]

Beeton suggested that steak and kidney could be "very much enriched" by the addition of mushrooms or oysters. [13] In those days oysters were the cheaper of the two: mushroom cultivation was still in its infancy in Europe and oysters were still commonplace. [12] In the following century Dorothy Hartley (1954) recommended the use of black-gilled mushrooms rather than oysters, because long cooking is "apt to make [oysters] go hard". [1] [n 3]

Neither Beeton nor Hartley specified the type of animal from which the kidneys were to be used in a steak and kidney recipe. Grigson (1974) calls for either veal or ox kidney, [12] as does Marcus Wareing . [14] Other cooks of modern times have variously specified lamb or sheep kidney ( Marguerite Patten , Nigella Lawson and John Torode ), [15] ox kidney ( Mary Berry , Delia Smith and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall ), [16] veal kidney ( Gordon Ramsay ), [17] either pork or lamb ( Jamie Oliver ), [18] and either ox, lamb or veal kidneys ( Gary Rhodes ). [19]

Cooking and variations [ edit ]

Round steak and kidney pie

Some versions are full, or "double-crust", pies, in which the cooking dish is lined with pastry before the meat mixture is added, after which a pastry top is put over it. [20] In other versions the meat is put straight into the dish, with only a pastry lid. [21] In either case, a pie funnel is often used to stop the top crust sinking into the meat mixture during baking. [22] Some recipes call for puff pastry ; others for shortcrust . [21] In some the meat is cooked before going into the pie; [23] in others it goes in raw. [1] In addition to the steak and kidney, the filling typically contains carrots and onions, and is cooked in one or more of beef stock, red wine and stout . [24]

The steak and kidney pie is found in numerous regional variants. In the West Country clotted or double cream may be poured into the pie through a hole in the pastry topping just before serving. [25] The Ormidale pie from the Scottish Highlands is flavoured with a teaspoon each of Worcestershire sauce , vinegar and tomato sauce. [25] In East Yorkshire sliced potatoes are substituted for kidneys and the dish is called meat and pot pie. [25] In the English Midlands, Northern England and Scotland oysters or mushrooms or both are often added; in Scotland this variant is known as Musselburgh pie. [25]

Popular culture [ edit ]

Among the various vernacular names for steak and kidney pie are Kate and Sidney pie, snake and kiddy pie, and snake and pygmy pie. [26] Eric Partridge dates the first of these to around 1880. [27] A substantial part of the plot of P. G. Wodehouse 's 1963 comic novel Stiff Upper Lip, Jeeves hinges on the disruptive allure of a magnificent steak and kidney pie for a young man whose fiancee has decreed that he must turn vegetarian. [28]

See also [ edit ]

Notes, references and sources [ edit ]

Notes [ edit ]

  1. ^ Elizabeth David came across a 17th-century recipe for a "Steake Pye", but unlike modern pies it had no lid, and contained a mixture of beef and mutton. [3]
  2. ^ The work was published in book form in 1861, but had appeared as a part-work over the previous two years. [12]
  3. ^ Hartley suggested that if seafood were wanted in a steak-and-kidney mix, cockles would be preferable to oysters. [1]

References [ edit ]

  1. ^ a b c d Hartley, pp. 87?88
  2. ^ Davidson, p. 754
  3. ^ David, p. 145
  4. ^ "Jack Scroggins and the Kidney Pie", Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle , 12 November 1826, p. 3
  5. ^ "the Streets at Night", Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle , 17 January 1836, p. 3
  6. ^ "Cafe Francais et Restaurant", The Albion , 25 October 1847, p. 5,
  7. ^ "Benson's", Birmingham Daily Post , 17 February 1863, p. 1
  8. ^ "Local Police", West Middlesex Advertiser , 1 November 1862, p. 3
  9. ^ "Police Intelligence", The Sun , 30 March 1867
  10. ^ "Tiffin'", The Star , 24 July 1875, p. 3
  11. ^ The Zoo Archived 2021-10-07 at the Wayback Machine , Gilbert and Sullivan Archive, p. 7. Retrieved 2 May 2022
  12. ^ a b c d e Grigson, p. 243
  13. ^ Beeton, pp. 281?282
  14. ^ "Steak and Kidney Pudding by Marcus Wareing" Archived 12 May 2021 at the Wayback Machine , The Caterer , 11 September 2006
  15. ^ Patten, p. 156; Lawson, Nigella. "Steak and kidney pudding" Archived 27 November 2021 at the Wayback Machine , Nigella Recipes. Retrieved 1 May 2022; and Torode, p. 122
  16. ^ Berry, p. 65; Smith, Delia. "Mum's Steak and Kidney Plate Pie" Archived 20 March 2022 at the Wayback Machine , DeliaOnline. Retrieved 1 May 2022; and Fearnley-Whittingstall, p. 53
  17. ^ Ramsay, p. 138
  18. ^ Oliver, Jamie. "Steak and kidney pudding" Archived 2 May 2022 at the Wayback Machine , jamieoliver.com. Retrieved 1 May 2022
  19. ^ Rhodes (1994), p. 122 and (1997), p. 118
  20. ^ Berry, pp. 184?185
  21. ^ a b Martin, p. 53
  22. ^ Willan, p. 91
  23. ^ Smith, Delia. "Mum's Steak and Kidney Plate Pie" Archived 20 March 2022 at the Wayback Machine , DeliaOnline. Retrieved 1 May 2022
  24. ^ Cloake, Felicity. "How to cook the perfect steak and kidney pudding" Archived 31 March 2022 at the Wayback Machine , The Guardian , 1 March 2012
  25. ^ a b c d Boyd pp. 321?322
  26. ^ Icons.org - steak-kidney-pie Archived 17 December 2006 at the Wayback Machine
  27. ^ Partridge, p. 502
  28. ^ Wodehouse, pp. 50, 52, 56, 73?74 and 98

Sources [ edit ]

  • Beeton, Isabella (1861). The Book of Household Management . London: S.O. Beeton. OCLC   1045333327 .
  • Berry, Mary (2006). Mary Berry's Christmas Collection . London: Headline. ISBN   978-0-7553-1562-8 .
  • Boyd, Lizzie (1977). British Cookery: A Complete Guide to Culinary Practice in the British Isles . London: Croom Helm. ISBN   978-0-85664-851-9 .
  • David, Elizabeth (2000) [1970]. Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen . London: Grub Street. ISBN   978-1-902304-66-3 .
  • Davidson, Alan (1999). The Oxford Companion to Food . Oxford: Oxford University Press . ISBN   0-19-211579-0 .
  • Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh (2005). The River Cottage Year . London: Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN   978-0-340-82822-9 .
  • Grigson, Jane (1992). English Food . London: Ebury Press. ISBN   978-0-09-177043-3 .
  • Hartley, Dorothy (1999) [1954]. Food in England . London: Macdonald and Jane's. ISBN   978-1-85605-497-3 .
  • Martin, James (2008). James Martin's Great British Dinners . London: Mitchell Beazley. ISBN   978-1-84533-582-3 .
  • Partridge, Eric (2009). A Dictionary of Historical Slang . London: Penguin. ISBN   978-0-14-051046-1 .
  • Patten, Marguerite (1958). Learning to Cook with Marguerite Patten . London: Pan. ISBN   978-0-330-23025-4 .
  • Ramsay, Gordon (2009). Gordon Ramsay's Great British Pub Food . London: HarperCollins. ISBN   978-0-00-728982-0 .
  • Rhodes, Gary (1994). Rhodes Around Britain . London: BBC Books. ISBN   978-0-563-36440-5 .
  • Rhodes, Gary (1997). Fabulous Food . London: BBC Books. ISBN   978-0-563-38385-7 .
  • Torode, John (2008). Beef . London: Quadrille. ISBN   978-1-84400-690-8 .
  • Willan, Anne (1979). Grand Diplome Cooking Course . Danbury: Grolier. OCLC   1035310033 .
  • Wodehouse, P. G. (1966) [1963]. Stiff Upper Lip, Jeeves . London: Penguin. ISBN   978-0-14-002479-1 .

See also [ edit ]

External links [ edit ]

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