Type of climbing
Multi-pitch climbing
is a type of
climbing
that typically takes place on
routes
that are more than a single rope length (circa 50 to 70 metres) in height (or distance), and thus where the
lead climber
cannot complete the climb as a single
pitch
. Where the number of pitches exceeds 6?10 (300?500 metres), it can become
big wall climbing
, or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become
alpine climbing
. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in
traditional
,
sport
, and
aid
formats. Some have
free soloed
multi-pitch routes.
Multi-pitch climbing is more complex and riskier than single-pitch climbing as the climbers will remain exposed on the route (e.g. a
rock climbing
route, an
ice climbing
, or a
mixed climbing
route) for longer, and it will often involve the use of
hanging belays
, long
abseils
, and the creation of
belay anchors
. Rescues from multi-pitch climbs are far more serious, and climbers will use additional protection to avoid this. Multi-pitch climbing requires greater communication between climbers; advanced climbers can use the riskier?but faster?
simul climbing
.
Description
[
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]
Multi-pitch
lead climbing
involves ascending
climbing routes
that cannot be completed in a single
pitch
(which is typically a rope-length), usually due to their height but also due to routes that move in unusual directions (e.g. routes with a lot of
traversing
). Multi-pitch routes are most commonly
traditional climbing
routes (i.e. the leader inserts the
climbing protection
as they ascend), but there are also multi-pitch
sport climbing
routes (i.e. the climbing protection is pre-
bolted
into the route, or at least where important belay anchors are pre-bolted such as on
El Capitan
in Yosemite).
[1]
[2]
Multi-pitch climbs are usually done in teams of pairs, and the position of leader can alternate between pitches or after a group of pitches (called "block leading") as long as both climbers have the skill and competence to lead on the route. Alternatively, one climber can lead all of the pitches while the other climber constantly belays them, and is then belayed themselves from the top by the lead climber on each pitch (see image left). Where both climbers are very comfortable on the terrain and want to move quickly, they can use
simul climbing
, although this is a more complex and riskier technique.
In addition to climbing in pairs, multi-pitch climbs can be done as
solo climbs
, either as
free solo climbing
(i.e. no protection used), or as
rope solo climbing
(i.e. a self-belying system used).
[1]
[2]
The boundary between multi-pitch climbing and
big wall climbing
or
alpine climbing
is not defined. Generally, multi-pitch routes that are
at least
6?10 pitches or 300-500 metres in length, and mostly require
hanging belays
(i.e. due to the sheer nature of the route) are considered "big wall routes". Long multi-pitch climbs on mountains whose route is not continually on a sheer "big wall" face, are sometimes referred to as alpine rock climbing.
Ice climbing
and
mixed climbing
can also be done as multi-pitch climbing, or as part of an alpine climbing route.
[1]
[2]
Equipment
[
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]
Multi-pitch climbing requires all the equipment used in leading a single-pitch
sport
,
traditional
or
ice
climbing route, but with a few specific additions:
[1]
[4]
- Extra
belaying
equipment. Multi-pitch climbers need additional
slings
,
cord
, and
screwgate carabiners
to create strong and secure belay anchors at the end of each pitch. In addition, belaying from above usually requires additional self-locking devices (e.g.
grigris
). For longer multi-pitch routes (i.e. closer to big wall climbing),
ascenders
might be used by the second climber to speed progression.
[1]
[4]
- Abseiling equipment
. Even where the multi-pitch climbers can exit upon completing the climb via a walking trail (versus having to abseil back down), the risk of a forced retreat during the climb means that sufficient equipment for safe abseiling is also always carried; this means having several abseil devices (e.g. the
figure 8
), additional
prusik cords
, and also extra coils of rope as a basic requirement.
[1]
[4]
- Protective clothing
. A forced abseil retreat on a multi-pitch climb can be risky, however, abseiling an injured climber on a multi-pitch route is an even more serious undertaking. Multi-pitch climbers will therefore tend to take additional precautions that they might not use on single-pitch routes such as wearing
helmets
and
belay gloves
or fingerless climbing gloves, to minimize the risk of retreat from any form of injury. They will also bring additional food and water provisions and all-weather clothing as well.
[1]
[4]
Techniques
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]
While many of the techniques of single-pitch lead climbing are common to multi-pitch climbing, there are specific techniques that are important to be able to execute well to safely ascend a multi-pitch climbing route:
[1]
[4]
- Belay anchors
. A key technique in multi-pitch climbing is the ability to create very robust belay anchors that can hold the strong downward and upward forces a belayer can experience on a multi-pitch route in any climber fall. Some of these anchors may also need to be used later as
abseil
points in the event of a retreat or after summiting the route.
[4]
[5]
[6]
Popular multi-pitch routes can have permanent bolted belay anchors.
[7]
- Hanging belays
and belaying from above. Some multi-pitch climbs will have belay points that have no ledge to stand on, and thus the belayer will be hanging from the rock face from the belay anchor. In addition, belaying from above a climber can involve additional belay equipment (such as a
grigri
) and techniques to avoid forces being applied directly to the belayer's harness in the event of a climber fall.
[4]
[8]
- Changing leads. Multi-pitch climbers sometimes need to be able to switch roles efficiently at the end of each pitch. Where the pair alternate leads, the second climber can continue past the belay to lead the next pitch (e.g., the belayer keeps belaying). However, where they need to swap roles at the belay anchor, there are a number of techniques required to ensure that the changeover is done safely and efficiently.
[4]
[9]
- Communication
. Because of the greater distances between climbers (the individual pitches of multi-pitch routes are often typically a full rope-length), and the need for the lead climber to have the time to set up a strong belay anchor, it is important that the pair understand the signals and commands that indicate when such tasks have been completed and the lead climber is ready to belay.
[4]
[10]
[11]
- Fall factor
management. Multi-pitch climbers need to avoid the lead climber falling with no climbing protection in situ, so that they fall all the way down to the belayer and then the same distance again below the belayer. Such a fall has a fall-factor of 2 and will create significant strains on both the belay anchors and the belayer. To avoid this, the lead will clip into protection just above the belay anchor.
[4]
[12]
- Rope management. Once the lead climber creates the new belay anchor to belay their partner below, they need to
take in
the slack rope until there is a taut line between the pair. As they will often be standing on a small platform (or even no platform in a hanging belay), they need to ensure that the rope they pull up does not get caught up equipment or get tangled, and will therefore use some manner of coiling technique.
[4]
[13]
- Time and retreat management. Retreat from a multi-pitch climb can be difficult, and at a minimum will require
abseils
which are in themselves a risk factor. Mult-pitch climbers, therefore, need to be aware of their time-keeping, and the specific points at which retreat becomes more difficult, and/or where abseil points are less plentiful (some popular multi-pitch routes have
bolted
belay anchors that double as abseil points).
[4]
Competition multi-pitch climbing
[
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]
In October 2022, the first
competition climbing
event in a multi-pitch format was hosted on an artificial
climbing wall
built on the
Verzasca Dam
in Switzerland as the 'Red Bull Dual Ascent'. Teams of climbing pairs faced off in head-to-head contests on identical side-by-side 6-pitch 180-metre (590 ft) routes, with the winning team finishing the route in the fastest time. Unlimited falls were allowed as long as the lead climber returned to the base of the pitch (or penalty points were accepted instead). The first event was won by
Alberto Gines Lopez
and
Luka Poto?ar
.
[14]
The October 2023 event was held in a mixed team format, with
Jernej Kruder
and his sister Julija Kruder taking first prize.
[15]
[16]
Grading
[
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]
Multi-pitch climbing routes are generally graded in the same way as their equivalent single-pitch
sport route grading
,
traditional route grading
, or
ice route grading
routes. Each pitch on a multi-pitch route will be separately graded so that, for example, a 3-pitch multi-sport climbing route might be graded as
French sport
: 7c, 7b, 8a; or a 5-pitch multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as
American YDS
: 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.11c, 5.9. Harder or easier options on individual pitches will also be highlighted and separately graded, so that, for example, a pitch might be graded as
French sport
: 7c "avoidable" or "max" (you don't have to do the 7c part) / 7a "obligatory" or "obj" (you will have to do at least 7a graded climbing).
[18]
Sometimes an "overall" grade is quoted for a multi-pitch route (in addition to the grades of individual pitches), however, this is usually the grade of the hardest pitch on the route (e.g. see
Yeah Man
image opposite).
[18]
In common with
big wall grading
, where there are very difficult sections of individual pitches that are well above the general level of difficulty of the overall route (i.e. a common feature of bigger walls as it is harder to find big routes of a consistent difficulty level), an
aid climbing
option might be highlighted, which will have an attached
aid climbing grade
, for example, an individual pitch on a multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as: 5.10a (with no aid) or 5.7 A2 (with aid), and the type of aid needed also explained.
[18]
In film
[
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]
A number of notable films have been made focused on multi-pitch (and big wall climbing) including:
[19]
See also
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]
References
[
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]
- ^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
Ronald C. Eng, ed. (October 2010). "Chapter 12: Leading in Rock".
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
(8th ed.). Quiller Publishing. pp. 255?276.
ISBN
978-1594851384
.
- ^
a
b
c
Long, John
; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Chapter 13: Multi-pitch climbing".
How to Rock Climb
(6th ed.).
Falcon Guides
. pp. 335?369.
ISBN
978-1493056262
.
- ^
"Brych VI+"
.
theCrag
. 2023
. Retrieved
18 November
2023
.
- ^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
l
Chelton, Neil (June 2019). "Summary Extract".
Sport Climbing Basics: Single and Multi-Pitch Bolted Routes
.
ISBN
978-1796923278
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Chauvins, Marc; Coppoillo, Rob (15 March 2022).
"Master the Ultimate Multi-Pitch Anchor: The Quadalette"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Debruin, Derek (13 January 2022).
"A Simpler Way to Rig Multi-Pitch Anchors"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Sterling, Sarah (4 April 2016).
"Five of the best adventurous multi-pitch sport crags in Europe"
.
British Mountaineering Council
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Climbing Desk (6 May 2022).
"Weekend Whipper: 5.14 Multi-pitch route Never Looked So Uncomfortable"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Garlick, Sarah (20 May 2022).
"7 Tricks for Speedy Swaps at Multi-pitch Belays"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Pardy, Aaron (13 April 2023).
"10 Tips for Better Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing"
.
Gripped Magazine
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Corrigan, Kevin (23 August 2023).
"Avoid Accidents With Better Multi-pitch Communication"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
17 January
2023
.
- ^
Harris, Will (July 2014).
"Top tips for your first multi-pitch adventure"
.
British Mountaineering Council
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
Ellison, Julie (23 August 2023).
"Streamline Your Next Multi-pitch With These Rope-management Tips"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
13 January
2023
.
- ^
Miller, Delaney (2 November 2022).
"Yep: There was a 600-foot Multipitch Race up a Swiss Dam"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
9 March
2024
.
- ^
Mitchell, Hannah (29 November 2022).
"Red Bull's Dual Ascent?Equal Parts Impressive and Absurd?Returns for Second Year"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
9 March
2024
.
- ^
"Brother and Sister Win Epic Multi-Pitch Red Bull Climbing Comp"
.
Gripped Magazine
. 9 November 2023
. Retrieved
9 March
2023
.
- ^
"Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi made the first free ascent of "Yeah man"
"
. 11 August 2004
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
- ^
a
b
c
Ogden, Jared (2005). "Chapter 2: Big Wall Climbing Procedures, Grades & Ratings".
Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique
(1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 56?60.
ISBN
978-0898867480
.
- ^
Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022).
"The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time"
.
Outside
. Retrieved
28 September
2023
.
Further reading
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]
External links
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]
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