British cosmetics company
Lush Retail Ltd.
|
|
Company type
| Private
|
---|
Industry
| Cosmetics
|
---|
Founded
| 12 November 1995
; 28 years ago
(
1995-11-12
)
[1]
|
---|
Founders
| Mark and Mo Constantine, Andrew Gerrie, Liz Weir, Rowena Bird, Helen Ambrosen and Paul Greeves
[2]
|
---|
Headquarters
| |
---|
Number of locations
| 886 stores (2024)
[3]
|
---|
Products
| Skin care
|
---|
Website
| lush
.com
|
---|
Lush Retail Ltd.
is a British
cosmetics
retailer
which is headquartered in
Poole, Dorset
, United Kingdom. It was founded in 1995 by
trichologist
Mark Constantine
, his wife Mo Constantine and five other founders.
It produces and sells creams,
soaps
,
shampoos
,
shower gels
,
lotions
,
moisturisers
, scrubs, masks, and other
cosmetics
for the face and hair.
The organisation claims it uses only vegetarian recipes, 95% of which are also vegan. The company operates stores in 51 countries globally, as well as production facilities located in the United Kingdom, Canada, Croatia, Germany, Japan, Australia and Poland.
History
[
edit
]
Early years
[
edit
]
Co-founders Mark Constantine and Liz Weir met in the 1970s and subsequently set up a cosmetics business. Constantine began training as a hairdresser and, after completing his training, began working for
Elizabeth Arden
in
London
.
[4]
[5]
Constantine began working at Marc Young's Beauty Salon in
Poole
, where he met Liz Weir, who was
freelancing
at the salon as a
beauty therapist
. Weir and Constantine started their own business selling natural hair and beauty products.
[4]
[
when?
]
Constantine and Weir started supplying
Anita Roddick
's
Body Shop
when she launched her second shop in 1977. The pair would become the Body Shop's biggest supplier until, in the early 1990s, the retailer became uncomfortable with not owning the formulations of many of its products. The Body Shop bought Constantine and Weir out, paying them £6 million for the
manufacturing rights
to the products they had been supplying.
[6]
[7]
Both co-founders signed a non-competition agreement, which was enforced until 1994.
[8]
Creation of Lush
[
edit
]
In 1995, Constantine and Weir opened a cosmetics shop on High Street in Poole, creating cosmetics from freshly purchased fruits and vegetables.
[9]
The company's name was chosen after a customer competition in the store's newsletter.
[9]
Lush opened two new stores in
Covent Garden
and
Kings Road
, London.
[10]
Lush expanded into other countries, first with stores in
Croatia
[11]
[12]
and then Australia in 1997,
[13]
Brazil in 1999 and
Dublin
, Ireland, in 2000.
[14]
[15]
"B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful" was an experimental brand launched in 2003 by Lush.
[16]
The first B Never store opened in 2003 and was located on
Carnaby Street
in
London
,
[16]
before Lush expanded to opening 205 stores overseas.
[17]
B Never closed its stores in 2009.
[18]
Recent history
[
edit
]
In 2010, Lush launched Gorilla Perfume, a collaboration between
perfumers
Mark Constantine and his son Simon Constantine.
[19]
In December 2010, Mark and his wife Mo Constantine were awarded the
OBE
in the New Year's Honours list, for services to the beauty industry.
[20]
In 2014, Gorilla perfume opened its own standalone store in
Islington
, London.
[21]
In December 2018, Lush launched its Naked skincare range, which includes solid facial oils and cleansers and a seaweed gel eye mask, and opened a number of Naked shops, in Manchester, Milan and Berlin.
[22]
In 2019, Lush opened its biggest store in the world in
Liverpool
.
[23]
At the beginning of the
COVID-19 pandemic
, Lush offered the public free handwashing in all its stores, as a means to help slow the spread of the virus.
[24]
However, on 16 March 2020, Lush closed all North American stores but continued to pay staff, with stores in Australia closing four days later and those in the UK closing on 21 March.
[25]
[26]
[27]
[28]
Later in March, the company announced it was laying off staff in Canada due to the impact that the pandemic was having on its operation, facing a future with a "much smaller business".
[29]
In 2021, Lush removed its Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat and TikTok accounts citing negative
mental health
and
body image
effects caused by such services.
[30]
In February 2022, following the
2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine
, the company announced that it would be closing all 15 of its stores in
Ukraine
due to safety concerns.
[31]
In 2023, the company partnered with
Nintendo
and
Illumination
to make cosmetics based on
The Super Mario Bros. Movie
.
[32]
Business structure
[
edit
]
Lush is a
privately owned company
with a small number of shares available on an invitation-only basis.
[33]
The company operates in 49 countries, with approximately 20% of its stores located in the US as of 2017.
[12]
Many of the global operations outside the UK were founded via
joint venture
agreements between Lush and third parties.
[34]
In 1996, a joint venture agreement was signed to expand the cosmetics operation to North America. This began by opening stores in Canada, and six years after the initial move into the North American market, Lush opened its first store in the United States.
[35]
A similar arrangement saw the launch of Lush Australia in 1997, when the first store opened in the country.
[36]
The company follows a "no advertising policy", in which it does not spend money on TV campaigns or
celebrity endorsements
, and instead relies heavily on
user-generated content
.
[37]
However, the company partnered with
drag queens
from
RuPaul's Drag Race
alumnae
Kim Chi
,
Detox
and
Shea Coulee
in the holiday season of 2018 to create photo campaigns for their new products.
[38]
Products are also advertised through staff engaging in "random acts of kindness", where they are allowed to give away products to customers.
[39]
Lush states that it does not have a target demographic, and that as a brand it is "trying to make [its] stores welcoming to all".
[40]
Products
[
edit
]
Lush produces creams, soaps, shampoos, shower gels, lotions, moisturisers, fragrances, scrubs, toothpaste tablets, masks and other cosmetics for the face, hair, and body using only
vegetarian
or
vegan
recipes. In 2016, Lush produced 41 million products, of which 13.3 million were
bath bombs
.
[12]
In July 2012, Lush began selling their "Emotional Brilliance" makeup collection, which includes liquid lipsticks, liquid eyeliners, cream shadows, and mascara.
[41]
[42]
They also sell lifestyle products such as home fragrance (candles) and merchandise.
[43]
The company also offers spa treatments, such as massages and facials, at their Lush Spa locations in
Bath
,
Birmingham
,
Cardiff
,
Edinburgh
,
Leeds
,
Liverpool
,
London
, and
Poole
in the UK.
[44]
Ingredients and ethics
[
edit
]
Lush does not buy from companies that carry out, fund, or commission any
animal testing
.
[45]
[46]
They test their products on human volunteers.
[47]
In the 1980s, the founders worked with
Cruelty Free International
(previously known as BUAV), with the aim of developing an ethical testing standard, specifically for cosmetic companies.
[48]
The project led to the creation of cruelty-free standards still used today in the field of cosmetics.
[48]
Lush stipulates that they will not knowingly purchase from suppliers or supply chains that have been party to animal testing in any way, including the testing of raw materials on animals.
[49]
This stance against animal testing has meant that there are some countries where Lush refuses to sell its products.
[50]
An exception to this is
REACH
legislation, which was implemented by the
European Union
in 2007.
[51]
[52]
In late 2007, Lush introduced its first
palm oil
-free soap entitled "Greenwash", utilising a blend of
sunflower oil
,
rapeseed oil
, and
coconut oil
.
[53]
[54]
Due to the soap's success, the company decided to switch both UK and overseas production from palm oil to this blend,
[53]
[55]
significantly reducing the amount of palm oil the company purchased.
[56]
However, many Lush products continue to contain palm oil, and palm-oil derivatives such as
stearic acid
,
cetostearyl alcohol
and
sodium stearate
.
[55]
[57]
[58]
Since 2017, Lush has campaigned against the production and harvesting of palm oil, which is associated
orangutan
habitat destruction
in
Sumatra
,
[57]
and since 2018 has purchased two plots of land bordering the
Leuser Ecosystem
on Sumatra to reforest.
[59]
Lush products are 100% vegetarian, and 95% of the products are also vegan.
[
citation needed
]
They often contain fruits and vegetables such as grapefruit juice, vanilla beans, aloe vera, avocado butter, rosemary oil, fresh
papaya
, and coconut.
[60]
However, some products contain honey, and/or beeswax. Eggs used to be in products but was removed early 2019 and replaced by aquafaba, similarly
lanolin
was removed from all formulas in 2023.
Parabens
are used to preserve a number of the products.
[61]
Lush focuses on limited packaging for its product range, or package-free products.
[62]
[58]
[63]
The Environment Possibility Award conferred the "Award of Earth Defender" to Lush in 2020.
[64]
Boycott Israel controversy
[
edit
]
During the
2023 Israel?Hamas war
, a sign was placed in front of Lush's Dublin store saying "Boycott Israel".
[65]
This caused a backlash with their call to boycott. Lush released the following statement: "Recently, one shop within the UK&I business briefly displayed a 'Boycott Israel' message in their window. It was an isolated occurrence that does not represent the Lush ethos that 'All Are Welcome. Always.' and was swiftly removed. Lush deplores all acts of violence and our wish is for peace and safety for all Israeli and Palestinian people. We support the upholding of international law and the human rights of all peoples."
[66]
[67]
Donations and campaigns
[
edit
]
In 2006, the
REACH legislation
was proposed by the
European Union
and contained legislation that Lush believed would increase
animal testing
. The cosmetics company wrote to its European customers and also ran an in-store marketing campaign, asking for postcards objecting to the legislation be sent to
MEPs
, a move which resulted in 80,000 Lush customers sending postcards.
[68]
In December 2006, Lush protested outside the
European Parliament
in
Strasbourg
, by attempting to dump horse manure outside the building.
[69]
Lush is a supporter of
direct action
,
animal rights
operations including
Sea Shepherd
.
[70]
Lush has been a supporter of anti-taxation-avoidance grouping
UK Uncut
.
[71]
In 2007, Lush started openly supporting campaigning groups by sending a dozen cheques for £1,000 each, including
road protests
groups such as Road Block and NoM1Widening, Hacan Clear Skies (anti-aviation group), and Dump the Dump (which is fighting against an incinerator).
[72]
[73]
In 2011, Lush supported OneWorld's track
Freedom for Palestine
, which led to backlash from Israel advocacy groups, such as
StandWithUs
.
[74]
Lush has since claimed to support collaboration between the two nations especially in almond farming. It uses both Israel and
Palestine
as suppliers for
almond oil
.
[75]
[76]
In 2012, Lush had a performance artist endure ten hours of animal testing in the window of their
Regent Street
store window as part of their 'Fight Animal Testing' campaign.
[77]
Lush Cosmetics donated £3.8 million to charities in 2014.
[78]
In 2014, Lush supported the first Hen Harrier Day, with all its UK stores prominently highlighting the illegal persecution of
hen harriers
on upland grouse moors.
[79]
[80]
In 2012, Lush created The Lush Prize, a global award and grant given to researchers that find solutions and alternatives to
animal testing
. In the first six years, The Lush Prize donated nearly $2 million to award winners.
[
citation needed
]
Past winners of the award have included
PETA
and a research team at
The University of Cambridge
.
[81]
[82]
Recently the Lush Spring Prize was introduced, a biennial award with prize fund for projects that assist repairing the planet's damaged systems.
[83]
Following the
2019?20 Australian bushfire season
, Lush launched a campaign titled All The Wild Things, with proceeds from the sales of the koala-shaped soap bars would go to relief efforts aimed for
Australian wildlife
affected by the bush fires.
[84]
[85]
#Spycops campaign
[
edit
]
On 31 May 2018, Lush launched a campaign aimed to highlight previous
abuses by undercover police officers in the UK
. The company put up window displays in its stores with a mock-up of a police officer in and out of uniform alongside the tag-line "Paid to lie #Spycops". In some stores replica police tape was put on the
shopfront
windows with: "Police have crossed the line".
[86]
The campaign attracted immediate criticism from serving officers and members of the public due to its "broad brush" approach which appeared to suggest that police officers were liars and involved in a cover-up.
[87]
Many notable figures were critical of the campaign by Lush, including Chief Police Officers and the
Home Secretary
,
Sajid Javid
.
[86]
Lush responded to the backlash by stating that the campaign was "not an anti-state/anti-police campaign" and that they were aware "police forces of the UK are doing an increasingly difficult and dangerous job whilst having their funding slashed". They also stated that the campaign was "not about the real police work done by those front line officers who support the public every day ? it is about a controversial branch of political undercover policing that ran for many years before being exposed."
[88]
Lush suspended the window campaign "for the safety of our staff" on 8 June 2018,
[89]
[2]
but resumed it on 13 June.
[90]
Criticism
[
edit
]
In 2015, Lush was criticised for insensitivity when it stocked a new product,
Lavender Hill Mob
? a brand of incense inspired by the
2011 London riots
, featuring a graphic of a burning building.
Lavender Hill
itself had been targeted by looters and rioters, but Lush stated that it was "created to emphasise the importance of community".
[91]
Labour relations
[
edit
]
In July 2018, Lush Australia admitted owing more than 5,000 staff members up to $2 million in back pay. Lush Australia director Peta Granger said staff across the retail and manufacturing businesses have been underpaid since 2010 due to incorrect interpretations of the retail award.
[92]
In 2020,
The Guardian
raised concerns about the labour conditions at the Lush kitchen in
Sydney
, Australia, due to the high rate of injury reported by factory staff.
[93]
During the August 2020 resurgence of
COVID-19
in
Auckland
, New Zealand, Lush employees were given 48 hours notice that they would not receive pay for the duration of level 3 restrictions when the stores were unable to open, prompting negotiations between Lush and
First Union New Zealand
. Lush were ineligible for the government wage subsidy for staff, as their revenues had not decreased enough during this period.
[94]
Beginning in 2020, Lush North America faced criticism for
union busting
and poor working conditions. In September 2020, Lush workers in Toronto launched a campaign to unionise.
[95]
[96]
Employees complained about having their voices stifled by the company; facing retaliation for speaking out; having pay well below a living wage; and unfairly barring some employees from stability and benefits by abusing the company's seasonal contract policies. In response, Lush handed out anti-union leaflets, held
captive audience meetings
, and allegedly targeted union organisers.
[96]
This is in contrast to the company's ethical buying policy, which states the importance of collective bargaining.
Workers United Canada Council
, the union representing Lush Workers, filed charges against the company in both the United States and Canada. The charges allege that the company's actions in response to the union organising drive, as well as retaliation against individual employees was unlawful.
[97]
[98]
Lush North America was officially acquired by Lush UK in 2021, but as of 2021
[update]
these issues remain unchanged.
[
needs update
]
See also
[
edit
]
References
[
edit
]
- ^
"Lush.com WHOIS, DNS, & Domain Info ? DomainTools"
.
WHOIS
. Retrieved
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2016
.
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a
b
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.
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.
- ^
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- ^
a
b
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.
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.
- ^
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. Guy Raz: How I Built This.
- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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- ^
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- ^
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.
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.
- ^
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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{{
cite web
}}
: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (
link
)
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.
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- ^
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
- ^
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. Smart Company Australia.
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.
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.
- ^
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
- ^
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. Humane Society International. 9 April 2018
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.
- ^
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b
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.
- ^
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
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.
- ^
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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.
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.
- ^
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.
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.
- ^
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
"Lush launches attack on animal testing"
.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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.
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Bibi van der Zee (17 April 2007).
"Guerrilla giveaway"
.
The Guardian
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.
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"CharityPot"
. LUSH. Archived from
the original
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"UK Zionists fight cosmetics firm for anti-Israel project"
.
The Jerusalem Post
. 17 August 2017.
- ^
Markwell, Lisa (7 July 2019).
"Palestine on a plate: brilliant food in a troubled region"
.
The Times
.
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Ward, Ellie (27 April 2015).
"Lush talk clean business practices at Oxford Street"
.
Pioneers Post
.
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Omond, Tamsin (22 April 2012).
"Lush's human performance art was about animal cruelty not titillation"
.
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2020
.
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"Lush defies currency turmoil to post sweet-smelling profits"
.
- ^
"Lush cosmetics launch national Hen Harrier Day campaign"
.
markavery.info
. 8 August 2014
. Retrieved
14 September
2015
.
- ^
"Smell LUSH and save hen harriers!"
.
rspb.org.uk
. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Brackley, Paul (11 November 2020).
"University of Cambridge team working on alternatives to animal experiments wins 2020 Lush Prize worth £50,000"
.
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.
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"PETA Wins International Prize for Exposing Secret Tests on Animals"
.
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Montague, Brendan (22 May 2019).
"Refugee small farmer project wins prize"
.
The Ecologist
.
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"Lush launches All The Wild Things koala soap to raise money for wildlife in Australia"
.
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.
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Krause, Amanda (31 January 2020).
"People are begging Lush to make more of its sold-out Koala-shaped soap that benefits animals affected by Australian bushfires"
. Insider.
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a
b
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.
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.
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"Outrage over Lush ad campaign as cosmetics firm claims police are 'paid to lie'
"
.
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.
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.
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.
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. BBC News
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.
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Evans, Rob (13 June 2018).
"Cosmetics chain Lush resumes undercover police poster campaign"
.
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.
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.
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. Australia: ABC News
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.
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Zhou, Naaman (20 August 2020).
"Ethical cosmetics company Lush accused of poor working conditions for Australian staff"
.
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.
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"Lush Leadership Rejects Union Despite Supporting Them For Other Companies"
.
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"How Lush Cosmetics Tried to Crush a Union Drive"
.
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.
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Di Trolio, Gerrard (6 April 2021).
"
"Ethical" Brand Lush Cosmetics Is Actually a Terrible Place to Work"
.
Jacobin
.
External links
[
edit
]
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Lush (company)
at Wikimedia Commons
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