Archipelago and traditional district in Nordland, Norway
Lofoten
(
LOH
-foh-t?n, loh-
FOH
-t?n
,
Norwegian:
[?luːfuːtn?]
) is an
archipelago
and a
traditional district
in the county of
Nordland
,
Norway
. Lofoten has distinctive scenery with dramatic mountains and peaks, open sea and sheltered bays, beaches and untouched lands. There are two towns,
Svolvær
and
Leknes
? the latter is approximately 169 km (105 mi) north of the
Arctic Circle
and approximately 2,420 km (1,500 mi) away from the
North Pole
. The archipelago experiences one of the world's largest elevated temperature anomalies relative to its
high
latitude
.
Etymology
[
edit
]
Lofoten
(
Old Norse
:
Lofotr
) was the original name of the island
Vestvagøya
. The first element is
lo
(i.e., "
lynx
") and the last element is derived from Norse
fotr
(i.e., "foot"), as the shape of the island must have been compared with that of a lynx's foot. (The old name of the neighbouring island
Flakstadøya
was
Vargfot
, "
wolf
's foot", from
vargr
"wolf".) Alternatively it could derive from the word for light in reference to the presence of
Aurora Borealis
as the word for light itself is the root of the Old Norse word for lynx
loa
, although the earliest evidence suggests Lofotr was first the name of the island of Vestvagøy and only later becoming the name of the chain of islands. Most parsimonious is the analogy with Aurora Borealis, as the word fotr is typically not used to describe the feet of beasts of prey, instead using the word
hrammr
(paw) or
lopp
(also paw) for animals such as cats or dogs. Fotr can be used to describe legs, and as such,
light leg
represents the most plausible etymology taking into account the geography of the archipelago, eventually morphing to describe only the island of Vestvagøy before once again describing the island chain from its main island.
Another name one might come across, is "Lofotveggen" or the Lofoten wall. The archipelago looks like a closed wall when seen from elevated points around
Bodø
or when arriving from the sea, some 100 kilometres (62 miles) long, and 800?1,000 metres (2,600?3,300 feet) high.
History
[
edit
]
According to Robert M. D'Anjou and others: "There is evidence of human settlement extending back at least 11,000 years in Lofoten, and the earliest archaeological sites ... are only about 5,500 years old, at the transition from the early to
late Stone Age
".
Iron Age
agriculture, livestock, and significant human habitation can be traced back to
c. 250 BC.
[1]
The town of Vagan (
Norse
Vagar
) is the first known town formation in
northern Norway
. It existed in the early
Viking Age
, maybe earlier, and was located on the southern coast on eastern Lofoten, near today's village
Kabelvag
in
Vagan
municipality. The
Lofotr Viking Museum
with the reconstructed 83-metre-long (272 ft)
longhouse
(the largest known) is located near Borg on
Vestvagøy
, which has many archeological finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age.
[2]
The islands have for more than 1,000 years been the centre of great
cod
fisheries
, especially in winter, when the cod migrate south from the
Barents Sea
and gather in Lofoten to
spawn
.
Bergen
in southwestern Norway was for a long time the hub for further export of cod south to different parts of Europe, particularly so when trade was controlled by the
Hanseatic League
. In the lowland areas, particularly Vestvagøy, agriculture plays a significant role, as it has done since the
Bronze Age
.
In March 1941 the islands were raided by
British Commandos
during
Operation Claymore
, and in a subsequent
diversionary attack
to support the
Vaagso raid
in December.
As of 2017, the islands attract one million tourists a year.
[3]
Geography
[
edit
]
Lofoten is located at the
68th
and
69th parallels north
of the Arctic Circle in North Norway. Lofoten encompasses the municipalities of
Vagan
,
Vestvagøy
,
Flakstad
,
Moskenes
,
Værøy
, and
Røst
. The principal islands, running from north to south are:
Further to the south are the small and isolated islands of
Værøy
(
67°40′N
12°40′E
/
67.667°N 12.667°E
/
67.667; 12.667
) and
Røst
(
67°37′N
12°7′E
/
67.617°N 12.117°E
/
67.617; 12.117
). The total land area amounts to 1,227 square kilometres (474 square miles), and the population totals 24,500.
Many will argue that Hinnøya, the northern part of
Austvagøy
and several hundred smaller islands, skerries and rocks to the east of
Austvagøy
are also part of the Lofoten complex. Historically, the territorial definition of Lofoten has changed significantly. Between the mainland and the Lofoten archipelago lies the vast, open
Vestfjorden
, and to the north is
Vesteralen
. The principal towns in Lofoten are
Leknes
in Vestvagøy and
Svolvær
in Vagan. The main islands are joined to each other and the mainland by road bridges.
The Lofoten Islands are characterised by their mountains and peaks, sheltered inlets, stretches of seashore and large virgin areas. The highest mountain in Lofoten is
Higravstinden
(1,161 metres (3,809 feet)) in Austvagøy; the
Møysalen National Park
just northeast of Lofoten has mountains reaching 1,262 metres (4,140 feet). The famous
Moskstraumen
(Malstrøm) system of
tidal
eddies
is located in western Lofoten, and is indeed the root of the term
maelstrom
.
Geology
[
edit
]
Lofoten is a
horst ridge
of
bedrock
.
[4]
The rocks of Lofoten belong to the wider
Western Gneiss Region
of Norway.
[5]
Some of the high relief and irregular surfaces of Lofoten has been attributed to
etching
that took place during the
Mesozoic Era
. Evidence of this would be the
kaolinite
found at some locations.
[6]
To the northwest the Lofoten archipelago is bounded by the NE?SW-trending West Lofoten Border Fault. This is a
normal fault
whose
fault scarp
has been eroded forming a
strandflat
.
[7]
In
Vestvagøya
mountains have steep slopes towards the open sea in the northwest and southeast while slopes pointing towards the interior of the island are more gentle. This is the result of
erosion
acting on a landscape that has been uplifted along NE?SW-trending faults in the margins of Lofoten while the interior axis has remained more stable.
[4]
In
tectonic
terms mountains are
half-grabens
and faults are of the
dip-slip type
.
[4]
The sea around Lofoten is known to host significant oil reserves: 1.3 bn barrels. Oil extraction in the Lofoten area is prohibited.
[3]
Wildlife
[
edit
]
The sea is rich with life, and the world's largest
deep water coral
reef, called the
Røst Reef
, is located west of Røst.
[8]
Approximately 70% of all fish caught in the Norwegian and Barents seas use its islands' waters as a breeding ground.
[3]
Otters
are common, and there are
elk
on the largest islands. There are some woodlands with
downy birch
and
rowan
. There are no native
conifer
forests in Lofoten, but some small areas with private
spruce
plantations.
Hedlundia hybrida
[9]
and
Malus sylvestris
occur in Lofoten, but not further north.
Birds
[
edit
]
Some 27,000 ha of marine waters along the north-western coasts and fjords of the Lofoten Islands has been designated an
Important Bird Area
(IBA) by
BirdLife International
(BLI) because it supports
overwintering
populations of
common eiders
and
yellow-billed loons
. The IBA contains or overlaps with the Seløya, Morfjorden, Laukvikøyene, Eggum and Borgværet
nature reserves
, as well as the Laukvikøyene
Ramsar site
.
[10]
Lofoten has a high density of
sea eagles
and
cormorants
, and millions of other sea birds, among them the colourful
puffin
. It has mainland Europe's largest seabird colony.
[3]
The birds once mistaken for the extinct
great auk
turned out to be some of the nine
king penguins
released around Norway's Lofoten Islands in August 1936, there until at least 1944.
[11]
Climate
[
edit
]
Lofoten features a mostly
subpolar oceanic climate
(Cfc) under the
Koppen climate classification
, although some parts like Skrova feature a temperate
oceanic climate
(Cfb). Winter temperatures in Lofoten are extremely mild considering its location north of the Arctic Circle ? possibly the largest positive temperature anomaly in the world relative to
latitude
. The mild winters are a result of the temperate waters of the
Norwegian Sea
, which is warmed by the
North Atlantic Current
and the
Norwegian Current
. The mild air (Lows) from the Atlantic having a free path northwards even in winter is also very significant.
Strong winds can occur in late autumn and winter. Snow and sleet are not uncommon in winter. The mountains can have substantial amounts of snow, and avalanches may come down from the steep slopes.
In Svolvær, the sun is above the horizon continuously ("
midnight sun
") from 25 May to 17 July, and in winter the sun does not rise from 4 December to 7 January. In
Leknes
, the sun is above the horizon from 26 May to 17 July, and in winter the sun does not rise from 9 December to 4 January.
The temperature in the sea has been recorded since 1935. At 1 metre (3 feet 3 inches) depth in the sea near
Skrova
, water temperatures vary from a low of 3 °C (37 °F) in March to 14 °C (57 °F) in August, some years peaking above 17 °C (63 °F). November is around 7?8 °C (45?46 °F). At a depth of 200 metres (660 feet), the temperature is near 8 °C (46 °F) all year.
[12]
Skrova lighthouse on an island near Svolvær has the longest recording of air temperature in Lofoten. The warmest temperature recorded is 30.4 °C (86.7 °F) in June 1972. The coldest temperature recorded is ?15.1 °C (4.8 °F) in February 1966. Last overnight freeze in June was in 1962, and last freeze in September was in 1986. Skrova and nearby Svolvær are among those places in North Norway which can record what Norwegians know as "tropical nights" when the overnight low does not go below 20 °C (68 °F). The warmest night recorded in Lofoten was July 1 1972 at Skrova with low 23.8 °C (74.8 °F),
[13]
and the earliest in summer was June 10th 2011 with low 21.5 °C (70.7 °F).
[14]
The wettest month recorded is December 1936 with 227 mm, and the driest is January 2014 with 0.9 mm.
Climate data for Skrova 1991-2020 (14 m, precipitation days 1961-90, extremes 1934-2022)
|
Month
|
Jan
|
Feb
|
Mar
|
Apr
|
May
|
Jun
|
Jul
|
Aug
|
Sep
|
Oct
|
Nov
|
Dec
|
Year
|
Record high °C (°F)
|
10.6
(51.1)
|
8.5
(47.3)
|
10
(50)
|
17.4
(63.3)
|
24.3
(75.7)
|
30.4
(86.7)
|
29.8
(85.6)
|
27
(81)
|
22.1
(71.8)
|
17.1
(62.8)
|
13
(55)
|
11.2
(52.2)
|
30.4
(86.7)
|
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)
|
2.4
(36.3)
|
1.6
(34.9)
|
2.2
(36.0)
|
4.8
(40.6)
|
9
(48)
|
13
(55)
|
16.1
(61.0)
|
15.4
(59.7)
|
12
(54)
|
7.8
(46.0)
|
5.4
(41.7)
|
3.6
(38.5)
|
7.8
(46.0)
|
Daily mean °C (°F)
|
0.9
(33.6)
|
0.2
(32.4)
|
0.7
(33.3)
|
3.1
(37.6)
|
6.8
(44.2)
|
10.6
(51.1)
|
13.6
(56.5)
|
13.3
(55.9)
|
10.4
(50.7)
|
6.5
(43.7)
|
4
(39)
|
2.2
(36.0)
|
6.0
(42.8)
|
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)
|
?1
(30)
|
?1.6
(29.1)
|
?0.9
(30.4)
|
1.4
(34.5)
|
4.9
(40.8)
|
8.6
(47.5)
|
11.5
(52.7)
|
11.5
(52.7)
|
8.8
(47.8)
|
4.9
(40.8)
|
2.2
(36.0)
|
0.3
(32.5)
|
4.2
(39.6)
|
Record low °C (°F)
|
?12.7
(9.1)
|
?15.1
(4.8)
|
?12.3
(9.9)
|
?8.5
(16.7)
|
?3.4
(25.9)
|
?1.2
(29.8)
|
3.7
(38.7)
|
3.9
(39.0)
|
?1.4
(29.5)
|
?4.5
(23.9)
|
?10.7
(12.7)
|
?11.9
(10.6)
|
?15.1
(4.8)
|
Average
precipitation
mm (inches)
|
89
(3.5)
|
81
(3.2)
|
65
(2.6)
|
49
(1.9)
|
46
(1.8)
|
37
(1.5)
|
50
(2.0)
|
48
(1.9)
|
79
(3.1)
|
88
(3.5)
|
97
(3.8)
|
90
(3.5)
|
819
(32.3)
|
Average precipitation days
(≥ 1.0 mm)
|
14
|
11
|
11
|
10
|
9
|
9
|
11
|
10
|
15
|
17
|
15
|
15
|
147
|
Source 1: Norwegian Meteorological Institute
[15]
|
Source 2: Noaa WMO averages 91-2020 Norway
[16]
|
Even if the islands are not that large, there are climatic differences. Værøy and Røst furthest west have the warmest winters, but summer highs are cooler. Vestvagøy with the town Leknes has lowland in the interior of the island with mountains nearby; winters here are slightly colder and much wetter than at Skrova, while summers are drier and comparable.
Climate data for Leknes Airport 1991?2020
|
Month
|
Jan
|
Feb
|
Mar
|
Apr
|
May
|
Jun
|
Jul
|
Aug
|
Sep
|
Oct
|
Nov
|
Dec
|
Year
|
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)
|
1
(34)
|
1
(34)
|
2
(36)
|
6
(43)
|
10
(50)
|
12
(54)
|
16
(61)
|
15
(59)
|
12
(54)
|
8
(46)
|
4
(39)
|
3
(37)
|
8
(46)
|
Daily mean °C (°F)
|
0
(32)
|
?0.6
(30.9)
|
0
(32)
|
2.8
(37.0)
|
6.5
(43.7)
|
9.9
(49.8)
|
12.8
(55.0)
|
12.2
(54.0)
|
9.4
(48.9)
|
5.2
(41.4)
|
2.6
(36.7)
|
1
(34)
|
5.2
(41.3)
|
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)
|
?2
(28)
|
?2
(28)
|
?2
(28)
|
1
(34)
|
4
(39)
|
8
(46)
|
11
(52)
|
10
(50)
|
7
(45)
|
4
(39)
|
2
(36)
|
0
(32)
|
3
(38)
|
Average
precipitation
mm (inches)
|
203
(8.0)
|
174
(6.9)
|
161
(6.3)
|
93
(3.7)
|
74
(2.9)
|
45
(1.8)
|
38
(1.5)
|
78
(3.1)
|
123
(4.8)
|
161
(6.3)
|
173
(6.8)
|
223
(8.8)
|
1,546
(60.9)
|
Source 1: Norwegian Meteorological Institute
[15]
|
Source 2: Weatheronline climate robot (avg highs/lows)
[17]
|
Sport
[
edit
]
Mountaineering and rock climbing
[
edit
]
Lofoten offers many
rock climbing
and
mountaineering
opportunities. It has 24 hours of daylight in the summer and has Alpine-style ridges, summits and
glaciers
, but at a height of less than 1,200 metres (3,900 feet). The main centre for rock climbing is
Henningsvær
on Austvagøya.
The main areas for mountaineering and climbing are on
Austvagøy
and
Moskenesøya
. Moskenesøya features remote and serious mountaineering whereas
Austvagøy
is very popular area for rock climbing.
[
citation needed
]
Lofoten has one of the world's most noteworthy football pitches. Located in the village of Henningsvaer, the pitch at
Henningsvaer Stadium
rests on a rocky islet and has no actual seats.
[18]
Surfing
[
edit
]
Unstad
is one of its better known locations for surfing. Every September surfers from around the world visit to compete in the Lofoten Masters.
[19]
Cycling
[
edit
]
There is a well-marked cycling route that goes from
A
in the south and continues past
Fiskebøl
in the north. The route is part public road, part cycle-path with the option to bypass all of the tunnels by either cycle-path (tunnels through mountains) or boat. Traffic is generally light, although in July there may be a lot of
campervans
. Some of the more remote sections are on gravel roads. There is a dedicated cycling ferry which sails between
Ballstad
and
Nusfjord
, allowing cyclists to avoid the long, steep
Nappstraum
tunnel. The route hugs the coastline for most of its length where it is generally flat. As it turns inland through the mountain passes there are a couple of 300?400-metre (980?1,310-
foot
) climbs.
[
citation needed
]
The
Lofoten Insomnia Cycling Race
[20]
[
full citation needed
]
takes place every year around midsummer, possible in the midnight sun, but certainly in 24-hour daylight, along the whole Lofoten archipelago.
The
Arctic Race of Norway
, the world's northernmost professional stage race on road bike which takes place every year in Northern Norway, crossed the Lofoten islands during its first edition in August 2013. As of 2015
[update]
, the race was planned to be back in 2019 from Thursday 15 August to Sunday 18 August. The first two stages will cross the Lofoten archipelago from west to east.
[21]
[
full citation needed
]
Transportation
[
edit
]
The European road
E10
connects the larger islands of Lofoten with bridges and undersea tunnels. The E10 road also connects Lofoten to the mainland of Norway through the
Lofast
road connection, which was officially opened on 1 December 2007. There are several daily bus services between the islands of Lofoten and between Lofoten and the mainland along E10. The Lofoten Islands are not serviced by any trains. However, the city of Narvik is connected to Stockholm and Oslo by train, and connects directly to the Lofoten bus line.
[22]
Bodø is often used as a hub for travel to Lofoten. In addition to air travel there is a ferry connecting Bodø to
Moskenes
,
[23]
and a speedboat connection to Svolvær. Bodø is connected by train to Trondheim and Oslo. There is also a ferry connecting Svolvær to
Skutvik
in
Hamarøy
, with road connection east to
E6
.
Hurtigruten
calls at
Stamsund
and
Svolvær
.
Lofoten is also served by a number of small airports:
Culture
[
edit
]
Visual arts
[
edit
]
Lofoten International Art Festival
[
no
]
(Lofoten internasjonale kunstfestival, LIAF) is a
contemporary art
biennale
with no set venue or location on the archipelago.
[24]
Artists who have participated include Kjersti Andvig,
Michel Auder
,
A K Dolven
,
Ida Ekblad
,
Elmgreen & Dragset
, and
Lawrence Weiner
.
[25]
[26]
[27]
[28]
The
North Norwegian Art Centre
[
no
]
(Nordnorsk Kunstnersenter, NNKS) was established in
Svolvær
in 1979.
[29]
KaviarFactory
[
no
]
is a privately-owned contemporary art space in
Henningsvær
.
[30]
The
Nordland School of Art and Film
[
no
]
(Nordland kunst- og filmhøgskole, NKFS) was established in
Kabelvag
in 1997.
[31]
In popular culture
[
edit
]
Literature
[
edit
]
Films
[
edit
]
- In the film
Maelstrom
, Lofoten is where the ashes of Annstein Karson are distributed.
- In the film
The Sunlit Night
, Lofoten is where the protagonist Frances decides to aid a fellow critically reviled artist.
Television
[
edit
]
- The Norwegian television crime drama series
Twin
, which premiered on 27 October 2019 on NRK, is set in the Lofoten Islands.
- The Grand Tour: A Scandi Flick special was filmed in Lofoten in 2022.
Paintings
[
edit
]
Norwegian painter
Gunnar Berg
was known for his paintings of his native Lofoten. He principally painted scenes of the everyday life of the local fishermen. Other artists whose work has been associated with Lofoten include
Adelsteen Normann
,
Otto Sinding
,
Christian Krohg
,
Theodor Kittelsen
,
Lev Lagorio
,
[32]
Ernst Wilhelm Nay
and
Ingo Kuhl
.
Music
[
edit
]
In 2004,
Nurse with Wound
broadcast 24 unexpected radio transmissions from the Lofoten Islands,
[
citation needed
]
whose sounds were sourced from the environment and objects found in Lofoten. These recordings are included on their three releases entitled
Shipwreck Radio
.
[33]
See also
[
edit
]
References
[
edit
]
- ^
D'Anjou, Robert M.; Bradley, Raymond S.; Balascio, Nicholas L.; Finkelstein, David B. (2012).
"Climate impacts on human settlement and agricultural activities in northern Norway revealed through sediment biogeochemistry"
.
PNAS
.
109
(50): 20332?20337.
Bibcode
:
2012PNAS..10920332D
.
doi
:
10.1073/pnas.1212730109
.
PMC
3528558
.
PMID
23185025
.
- ^
"Norway ? Vestvagøy ? Vendalsjord"
.
www.travels-in-time.net
. Archived from
the original
on 2021-01-22
. Retrieved
2021-02-25
.
- ^
a
b
c
d
M.F. (29 Aug 2017).
"Why Norway may leave $65bn worth of oil in the ground"
.
The Economist
.
- ^
a
b
c
Bergh, Steffen G.; Liland, Kristian H.; Corner, Geoffred D.; Henningsen, Tormod; Lundekvam, Petter A. (2018).
"Fault-controlled asymmetric landscapes and low-relief surfaces on Vestvagøya, Lofoten, North Norway: inherited Mesozoic rift-margin structures?"
(PDF)
.
Norwegian Journal of Geology
.
98
(4).
doi
:
10.17850/njg98-3-06
. Retrieved
January 29,
2019
.
- ^
Steltenpohl, Mark G.; Hames, Willis E.; Andresen, Arild (2004).
"The Silurian to Permian history of a metamorphic core complex in Lofoten, northern Scandinavian Caledonides"
.
Tectonics
.
23
(1): n/a.
Bibcode
:
2004Tecto..23.1002S
.
doi
:
10.1029/2003TC001522
.
- ^
Lidmar-Bergstrom, K.
; Naslund, J.O. (2002). "Landforms and uplift in Scandinavia". In Dore, A.G.; Cartwright, J.A.; Stoker, M.S.; Turner, J.P.; White, N. (eds.).
Exhumation of the North Atlantic Margin: Timing, Mechanisms and Implications for Petroleum Exploration
. Geological Society, London, Special Publications. The Geological Society of London. pp. 103?116.
- ^
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[The rowan-whitebeam
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Further reading
[
edit
]
- Rines, George Edwin, ed. (1920).
"Lofoten"
.
Encyclopedia Americana
.
- Dyer, Anthony; Baddeley, John; Robertson, Ian H. (2006).
Walks and Scrambles in Norway
. Rockbuy Limited.
ISBN
9781904466253
.
- Webster, Ed (1994).
Climbing in the Magic Islands
(in Norwegian). Henningsvaer, Norway: Nord Norsk Klatreskole.
ISBN
9788299319904
.
- Craggs, Chris; Enevold, Thorbjørn (2008).
Lofoten Rock
. Rockfax Ltd.
ISBN
9781873341667
.
External links
[
edit
]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to
Lofoten
.
Wikivoyage has a travel guide for
Lofoten
.
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