Traditional elongated cloak-like garment
Kurdish
man wearing a kaftan. Illustration by
Max Karl Tilke
published in
Oriental Costumes: Their Designs and Colors
(1922),
Georgian National Museum
,
Tbilisi
.
A
kaftan
or
caftan
(
;
Arabic
:
?????
,
qaf??n
;
Persian
:
?????
,
khaft?n
;
Turkish
:
kaftan
) is a variant of the
robe
or
tunic
. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage,
kaftan
instead refers to a style of men's long suit with tight sleeves.
It may be made of
wool
,
cashmere
,
silk
, or
cotton
, and may be worn with a
sash
. Popular during the time of the
Ottoman Empire
, detailed and elaborately designed garments were given to ambassadors and other important guests at the
Topkapı Palace
.
Variations of the kaftan were inherited by cultures throughout Asia and were worn by individuals in
Russia
(North Asia, Eastern Europe and formerly Central Asia), Southwest Asia and Northern Africa.
Styles, uses, and names for the kaftan vary from culture to culture. The kaftan is often worn as a
coat
or as an overdress, usually having long sleeves and reaching to the ankles. In regions with a warm climate, it is worn as a light-weight, loose-fitting garment. In some cultures, the kaftan has served as a symbol of royalty.
History
The origins of the kaftan are uncertain, but it is believed to have first appeared in ancient
Mesopotamia
.
[1]
[2]
It is described as a long robe as far as the calves sometimes or just under the knee, and is open at the front and the sleeves are slight cut at the wrists or even as far as to the middle of the arms.
[
citation needed
]
Abbasid era
During the Islamic golden age of the
Abbasid
era, the cosmopolitan super-culture
[
clarification needed
]
spread far and wide to Chinese emperors,
Anglo-Saxon
coinage, but also in
Constantinople
too (current day
Istanbul
). They were mimicking and imitating
Baghdad
culture (capital of the Abbasids).
[
citation needed
]
In the 830s,
Byzantine
Emperor
Theophilus
, who fought the Abbasids on the battlefield and built a Baghdad-style palace near the
Bosporus
, went about in kaftans and turbans. Even as far as the streets of
Ghuangzhou
during the era of
Tang dynasty
, the Abbasid kaftan was in fashion.
[3]
The kaftan became a luxurious fashion,
[
when?
]
a richly styled robe with buttons down the front. The Caliphs wore elegant kaftans made from silver or gold brocade and buttons in the front of the sleeves.
[4]
The Caliph
al-Muqtaddir
(908?932) wore a kaftan from silver brocade Tustari silk and had his son one made from Byzantine silk richly decorated with figures. The kaftan was spread far and wide by the Abbasids and made known throughout the Middle East and North Africa.
[5]
Types
Turkic kaftan
The caftan appears to be the oldest Turkish dress, this costume can be traced as far back as the
Hun
and
Gokturk
periods.
[6]
The kaftan was the favourite garment worn in Turkic states of Central Asia, the Turkic Empire in India, the
Seljuk Turks
and the
Ottomans
.
[7]
It was the most important component of the Seljuk period and the oldest known examples of this robe are said to have been found in Hun tombs.
[8]
The costume of the Gokturk period consisted of long kaftans that are closed with a belt at the waist, these kaftans can be observed in Gokturk statues.
[9]
[10]
The Seljuk Sultan
Ahmad Sanjar
who ruled from 1097 to 1118 gave 1000 red kaftans to his soldiers.
[11]
In 1058 as well as the period of the Seljuk Sultan
Malik-Shah I
, the Seljuk Turks wore kaftans and excavations discovered a child's kaftan dating back to the reign of Sanjar-Shah who ruled from 1185 or 1186 to 1187.
[12]
[13]
[14]
The tiles in the
Kubadabad Palace
depict Turkish figures dressed in kaftans.
[15]
The palace was built for Sultan Aladdin Kayqubad I who ruled from 1220 to 1237. Furthermore, typical Seljuk depictions from the 11th to the 13th century depict figures dressed in Turkish style kaftans.
[16]
The kaftan was also worn by the Anatolian Seljuks who had even gifted kaftans to the first Ottoman Sultan, Osman I.
[17]
[18]
In connection with the inheritance of
Osman I
, the historian Ne?ri described a kaftan in the list of inherited items: "There was a short-sleeved kaftan of
Denizli
cloth".
[19]
In an excavation in Kinet in Turkey, a bowl dating back to the early 14th century was found with a depiction of a man wearing what appears to be a kaftan.
[20]
Kaftans were worn by the
sultans
of the
Ottoman Empire
. Decoration on the garment, including colours, patterns, ribbons, and buttons, indicated the rank of the person who wore it. In the first half of the 14th century
Orhan Ghazi
captured
Bursa
and made it the Ottoman capital. One of the chief specialties of Bursa was gold embroidery among other weaving related specialties, an archive notes that two kaftans made of the finest Bursa gold-brocaded velvet were prepared for the circumcision of Geliboulu Bey Sinan Pasha's two sons in 1494.
[21]
[22]
Ibn Battuta who had visited Anatolia witnessed that a mudarris was wearing a gown embroidered with golden pieces and that a Seljuk Bey gifted a kaftan that was embroidered with golden threads.
[23]
From the 14th century through the 17th century, textiles with large patterns were used. By the late 16th and early 17th centuries, decorative patterns on the fabrics had become smaller and brighter. By the second half of the 17th century, the most precious kaftans were those with
yollu
: vertical stripes with varying embroidery and small patterns ? the so-called "Selimiye" fabrics.
[
citation needed
]
Most fabrics manufactured in Turkey were made in
Istanbul
and
Bursa
, but some textiles came from as far away as
Venice
,
Genoa
,
Persia (Iran)
,
India
, and even
China
. kaftans were made from velvet,
aba
,
burumcuk
(a type of crepe with a silk warp and cotton weft),
canfes
,
catma
(a heavy silk
brocade
),
gezi
,
diba
(
Persian
:
????
),
hatayi
,
kutnu
,
kemha
,
seraser
(
?????
) (brocade fabric with silk warp and gold or silver metallic thread weft),
serenk
,
zerbaft
(
??????
), and
tafta
(
?????
). Favoured colours were
indigo
,
kermes
, violet,
pi?mi? ayva
or "cooked quince", and
weld yellow
.
[
citation needed
]
Silk or wooled vests embellished with couched gold thread or silk embroidery probably represent the introduction of a Turkish feature into an Arab aesthetic.
[24]
Nearly 2,500 caftans and other garments belonging to subsequent sultans from the 15th to the 19th century are preserved in the
Topkapı Palace
museum.
[25]
The Topkapı Palace houses 21 kaftan that belonged to
Mehmed II
, 77 kaftan that belonged to
Suleiman the Magnificent
, 13 that belonged to
Ahmed I
, 30 that belonged to
Osman II
and 27 that belonged to
Murad IV
.
[26]
Algerian kaftan
The kaftan has been historically documented to have been worn in Algeria in the beginning of the 16th century and the presence of the kaftan in Algeria dates far back to the
Rustamid
period
[27]
and is attested during the
Zirid
period in the 10th century as well as the
Zayyanid
period.
[28]
[29]
Following the Ottoman tradition, the male kaftan, known as the kaftan of honour, was bestowed by the Ottoman Sultan upon the governors of Algiers who, in turn, bestowed kaftans upon the Beys and members of distinguished families.
[30]
[31]
In his
Topography and General History of Algiers
,
Antonio de Sosa
[
es
]
described it as a coloured robe made of satin, of damask, of velvet and silk and having a form that reminded him of the priests' cassocks.
[32]
The Dey wore the kaftan with dangling sleeves; the
khodjas
(secretaries) wore a very long cloth based kaftan, falling to the ankles; the
chaouchs
(executors of the justice of the dey) were recognized by a green kaftan with sleeves either open or closed, according to their rank. The kaftan was also worn by the janissaries in the 17th and part of the 18th century.
[32]
It continued to be worn by male dignitaries well into the 20th century.
[32]
The female kaftan, on the other hand, evolved locally and derives from the
ghlila
,
[33]
a mid-calf jacket that combined Morisco and Ottoman influences, but which evolved following a very specific Algerian style from the sixteenth century onward.
[34]
Between the sixteenth and seventeenth century, middle-class women started wearing the
ghlila
. The use of brocades and quality velvet, the profusion of embroidery and gold threading were not enough to satisfy the need for distinction of the wealthiest Algerians who choose to lengthen the
ghlila
all the way to the ankles to make a kaftan that became the centrepiece of the ceremonial costume, while the
ghlila
was confined to the role of daily clothing.
[33]
The introduction of gold thread embroidery into North Africa itself is reputed to have been introduced through Turkish rule.
[35]
In 1789, the diplomat
Venture de Paradis
described the women of Algiers as follows:
When they go to a party, they put three or four ankle length golden kaftans on top of one another, which, with their other adjustments and gilding, may weigh more than fifty to sixty pounds. These kaftans in velvet, satin or other silks are embroidered in gold or silver thread on the shoulders and on the front, and they have up to the waistband big buttons in gold or silver thread on both sides; they are closed in front by two buttons only.
Several types of kaftans were developed since then, while still respecting the original pattern. Nowadays, the Algerian female kaftans, including the modernised versions, are seen as an essential garment in the bride's trousseau in cities such as
Algiers
,
Annaba
,
Bejaia
,
Blida
,
Constantine
,
Miliana
,
Nedroma
and
Tlemcen
.
[36]
The wedding costume tradition of Tlemcen, known as
chedda of Tlemcen
.,
[37]
which features the Algerian caftan, was inscribed to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by
UNESCO
in 2012, in recognition of its cultural significance.
[38]
A female kaftan offered by Ali Abdi Pacha of Algiers to the crown of Sweden on the occasion of a peace treaty, 1731.
Moroccan kaftan
According to the
Encyclopaedia of Islam
, the kaftan was introduced into the
Barbary States
by the Ottomans and spread by fashion as far as Morocco.
[39]
According to art historian Rachida Alaoui, the kaftan in Morocco dates back to the end of the 15th century and goes back to the region's Moorish history, which represents the medieval heritage of
Al-Andalus
. However, the first
written record
of the garment being worn in Morocco is from the 16th century, she states.
[40]
According to
Naima El Khatib Boujibar
, however, the kaftan might only have been introduced to Morocco by the
Saadi
Sultan
Abd al-Malik
, who had lived in
Algiers
and
Istanbul
.
[41]
Abd al-Malik, who had officially acknowledged Ottoman overlordship throughout his time as ruler of Morocco, dressed in Ottoman fashion, spoke Turkish, reorganised his army and administration in imitation of Ottoman practices and used Ottoman Turkish titles for his officials.
[42]
The second half of the sixteenth century was a period of Ottoman influence in Morocco during which Ahmad al-Mansur, who was greatly influenced by Ottoman culture, adopted Turkish costumes and customs, he introduced Ottoman fashions of dress, his army adopted Turkish costumes and titles and ambassadors even noted the use of Turkish pottery and Turkish carpets in the Badi Palace.
[43]
[44]
[45]
Aspects of Ottoman culture had been introduced to Morocco during the reign of both Abd al-Malik and Ahmad al-Mansur and Abd al-Malik's brief reign opened a period which continued under his successor of the "Turkification" of Morocco.
[46]
[47]
Henri Terrasse
asserted that Moroccan embroidery styles are almost all derived from the former regions of the Turkish empire, the introduction of gold thread embroidery into North Africa itself is reputed to have been introduced with Turkish rule.
[35]
[48]
Worn by the dignitaries and women of the palace at first, it became fashionable among the middle classes from the late 17th century onwards.
[49]
Today in Morocco, kaftans are worn by women of different social groups and the word kaftan is commonly used to mean a "one-piece traditional fancy dress". Alternative two-piece versions of Moroccan kaftans are called
takchita
and worn with a large belt. The takchita is also known as
Mansouria
which derives from the name of Sultan
Ahmad al-Mansur
, who invented Al-Mansouria and the new fashion of wearing a two-piece kaftan.
[50]
Since June 5, 2022, the Moroccan kaftan and the brocade of Fes have been officially included in the list of intangible cultural heritage by
ICESCO
.
[51]
West African kaftan
In
West Africa
, a kaftan is a pullover robe, worn by both men and women. The women's robe is called a
kaftan
, and the men's garment is referred to as a Senegalese kaftan.
A Senegalese kaftan is a pullover men's robe with long bell-like sleeves. In the
Wolof language
, this robe is called a
mbubb
and in French, it is called a
boubou
. The Senegalese kaftan is an ankle-length garment, and is worn with matching
drawstring pants
called
tubay
. Usually made of cotton brocade, lace, or synthetic fabrics, these robes are common throughout West Africa. A kaftan and matching pants are called a kaftan suit. The kaftan suit is worn with a
kufi cap
.
[52]
Senegalese kaftans are formal wear in all West African countries.
Persian
Persian kaftan robes of honour were commonly known as
khalat
or kelat.
[53]
North Asia and Eastern Europe
Russian
Gotlandic picture stone showing men in kaftan-like attire
In
Russia
, the word "kaftan" is used for another type of clothing: a style of men's long suit with tight sleeves. Going back to the people of various
Baltic
,
Turkic
,
Varangian
(
Vikings
) and
Iranic
(
Scythian
) tribes who inhabited today's Russia along with the
Slavic
population, kaftan-like clothing was already prevalent in ancient times in regions where later the
Rus' Khaganate
and
Kievan Rus'
states appeared.
[
citation needed
]
The Russian kaftan was probably influenced by Persian and/or Turkic people in Old Russia.
[54]
The word "kaftan" was adopted from the Tatar language, which in turn borrowed the word from Persia.
[55]
In the 13th century, the kaftan was still common in Russia. In the 19th century, Russian kaftans were the most widespread type of outer-clothing amongst peasants and merchants in Old Russia. Currently in the early 21st century, they are most commonly used as ritual religious clothing by conservative
Old Believers
, in Russian fashion (Rusfashion), Russian folk dress and with regards to
Russian folklore
.
[56]
Jewish
Jewish
children with a school teacher in
Samarkand
, wearing kaftans (circa 1910).
Hasidic Jewish culture
adapted a silky robe (
bekishe
) or
frock coat
(
kapoteh
, Yiddish word
kapote
or Turkish synonym
chalat
) from the garb of
Polish
nobility,
[57]
which was itself a type of kaftan. The term
kapoteh
may originate from the Spanish
capote
or possibly from "kaftan" via
Ladino
.
Sephardic Jews
from Muslim countries wore a kaftan similar to those of their neighbours.
[
citation needed
]
Southeast Asian
In
Southeast Asia
, the kaftan was originally worn by
Arab traders
, as seen in early lithographs and photographs from the region. Religious communities that formed as Islam became established later adopted this style of dress as a distinguishing feature, under a variety of names deriving from Arabic and Persian such as "
jubah
", a robe, and "cadar", a veil or
chador
.
[58]
Europe and United States
Americans returning from journeys on the
hippie trail
helped popularise the kaftan.
In the recent era the kaftan was introduced to the West in the 1890s, Queen Victoria's granddaughter
Alix of Hesse
wore a traditional Russian coronation dress before a crowd which included Western on-lookers, this traditional dress featured the loose-fitting Russian kaftan which was so exotic to Western eyes.
[59]
[
better source needed
]
This was one of the first times a Western woman, a high-status Western woman who had also been seen in fashionable Western dress no less, was seen wearing something so exotic. The traditional Russian kaftan resembles the kaftans worn by the Ottoman sultans; it was in stark contrast to the tight-fitting,
corseted
dresses common in England at that time.
[
citation needed
]
The kaftan slowly gained popularity as an exotic form of loose-fitting clothing. French fashion designer
Paul Poiret
further popularized this style in the early 20th century.
[
citation needed
]
In the 1950s, fashion designers such as
Christian Dior
and
Balenciaga
adopted the kaftan as a loose evening gown or robe in their collections.
[60]
These variations were usually sashless. This style had also began appearing as high fashion.
[61]
American
hippie
fashions of the late 1960s and the 1970s often drew inspiration from ethnic styles, including kaftans for women and men. These styles were brought to the United States by people who journeyed the so-called "
hippie trail
".
[60]
African-styled, kaftan-like
dashikis
were popular, especially among
African-Americans
. Street styles were appropriated by fashion designers, who marketed lavish kaftans as hostess gowns for casual at-home entertaining. The popularity of Kaftans went high in mass market and their cheap imports.
[61]
Given the materials and the style of the Kaftan, it has shown to symbolize serving as royalty.
[62]
The types of forms of dresses and kaftans were among the rich.
[63]
Diana Vreeland
,
Babe Paley
, and
Barbara Hutton
all helped popularize the kaftan in mainstream western fashion.
[64]
Into the 1970s,
Elizabeth Taylor
often wore kaftans designed by
Thea Porter
. In 1975, for her second wedding to Richard Burton she wore a kaftan designed by
Gina Fratini
.
[65]
More recently, in 2011
Jessica Simpson
was photographed wearing kaftans during her pregnancy.
[59]
[
better source needed
]
American fashion editor
Andre Leon Talley
also wore kaftans designed by
Ralph Rucci
as one of his signature looks.
[66]
Beyonce, Uma Thurman, Susan Sarandon, Kate Moss, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and Nicole Richie have all been seen wearing the style.
[67]
[
better source needed
]
Some fashion lines have dedicated collections to the kaftan.
Gallery
See also
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External links
Media related to
Kaftans
at Wikimedia Commons