Commune in French Polynesia, France
Commune in French Polynesia, France
Fatu-Hiva
(the "H" is not pronounced, see name section below) is the southernmost island of the
Marquesas Islands
in
French Polynesia
, an overseas territory of
France
in the
Pacific Ocean
. With
Motu Nao
as its closest neighbour, it is also the most isolated of the inhabited islands.
Fatu Hiva
is also the title of a book by explorer and archaeologist
Thor Heyerdahl
, in which he describes his stay on the island in the 1930s.
Name
[
edit
]
The name of the island in
Marquesan
is
Fatu Iva
(without "h":
[?fatu
?iva]
). However, the name was recorded by Europeans as
Fatu-Hiva,
perhaps under the influence of other Marquesan islands containing the element
Hiva
(
Nuku-Hiva
and
Hiva-Oa
) and also because in
French
the letter "h" is
silent
. The spelling
Fatu-Hiva
has now become official.
The island was named
Isla Magdalena
("Magdalene Island") by
Spanish
explorers in the 16th century, a name rarely used.
Hatauheva is another name form that appears in 1817, by Camille de Roquefeuil during his voyage around the world on the "Bordelais".
The spelling Fatou-Hiva appears in 1838 in a work by
Jules Dumont d'Urville
.
History
[
edit
]
First settlers
[
edit
]
Like the other islands of the
archipelago
, Fatu Iva was originally populated by Polynesians, who probably came from Western Polynesia.
Rivalries between the different
valleys
were frequent. In one of them, around the middle of the 19th century, the Anainoapa tribe of Hanavave and the Tiu of Omoa confronted each other. The latter, defeated, fled the island on bamboo rafts and ended up in the
Tuamotus
, on Napuka Atoll, where their descendants still live. The Tiu sorcerer, who remained on Fatu Iva, revealed to the victors the names of the places in the valley (a way of acknowledging their sovereignty), and had himself buried alive, head down, symbolizing his defeat and the end of his tribe.
[3]
Little is known of Fatu Hiva culture before
European
influence, as it was greatly affected by the arrival of the missionaries. Stratified tribal societies were formed in the great valleys, as in the rest of the Marquesas Islands. In 1897, the
German
explorer
Karl von den Steinen
described nine tribes inhabiting the Hanamoohe, Hanateone, Hanahouuna, Ouia, Hanavave and Omoa valleys. In the Hanavave valley, four
tribes
are known from the stones.
Systematic archaeological excavations have not yet been carried out. Surface investigations were carried out by the American anthropologist Ralph Linton on behalf of the
Bishop Museum of Honolulu
in 1920?1921. The finds are less numerous than on the other islands of the Marquesas and indicate less extensive building activity. Linton found the remains of several tohua (ceremonial and power centers) with dwelling platforms (paepae) and small me'ae in the Omoa Valley. This led Linton to suspect that several tribes had resided there. During his brief visit to the Hanavave Valley, Linton was only able to find small remains of a tohua and a ceremonial stone platform. Unlike the other islands of the
Marquesas
, the dead of Fatu Hiva were occasionally mummified (smoked) and often buried in the dwellings.
[4]
No colossal stone
statues
have been found on the island, but some small, crude stone sculptures have been preserved. This does not mean that there were no outstanding works of art on Fatu Hiva in
prehistoric
times. The island was known for tattoo artists and wood carvers, whose ephemeral works have barely survived the ages.
European exploration and colonization
[
edit
]
Nautical charts of Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands (1920)
From a
Western
perspective, the first explorer to discover Fatu Iva was the
Spanish
navigator
Alvaro de Mendana
, on 21 July 1595. It was the first island in the
archipelago
that he saw, but he was unable to land there because he could not find a safe anchorage. He mistakenly believed that he had found the
Solomon Islands
, the goal of his voyage, before realizing that he had just discovered a new land. He named the archipelago "Marquesas de Mendoza", in honor of the
viceroy of Peru
at the time, who had helped him launch his expedition, "wishing to show his gratitude for the help he had given him". As Mendana arrived during the vigil of
St. Mary Magdalene
in 1595, he named the place Isla Magdalena.
[5]
[6]
In 1937 and 1938,
Norwegian
anthropologist and adventurer
Thor Heyerdahl
and his wife Liv lived for a year and a half in Fatu Iva, first in Omoa and then in Ouia, a now deserted valley on the eastern coast of the island. Officially commissioned by the University of Oslo to investigate the distribution and spread of animal species among the Polynesian islands, his most personal goal on this trip, which was also his wedding trip, was to "sail the South Seas" and never return. The couple landed on Omoa in 1937, but found that civilization was still too much for their liking. They crossed the island and settled in Ouia, on the east coast of the island, a valley formerly inhabited by marqueses. However, after a year and a half,
mosquitoes
, disease and bad weather dampened their enthusiasm. He recounted his experience in the book Paa Jakt efter Paradiset (1938), rewritten in 1974 and published as Fatu Hiva, the return to nature.
[7]
In the early 1960s, until 1966, most of the island's men went to work in Moruroa, in the Tuamotu archipelago, on the construction of the Pacific [Nuclear] Experimental Center.
[3]
On 11 March 2011, Swiss explorer Raphael Domjan, expedition leader of the PlanetSolar adventure, the first ship to circumnavigate the planet on solar power, called at Fatu Hiva.
In 2023,
SV Delos
visited the island.
Geography
[
edit
]
Rainforest on Fatu-Hiva
The eastern coastline of Fatu-Hiva is characterized by a number of narrow valleys, carved by streams that lead to the interior. Between these valleys are headlands which terminate in cliffs that plunge directly into the sea, making travel between them possible only by travelling over the high mountain ridges between them, or by boat. The largest of these valleys is at
Uia
.
The western coastline has two significant bays,
Hana Vave
(also known as
Bay of Virgins
or
Baie des Vierges
) in the north, one of the most picturesque sites in the
South Pacific
, and the well-protected harbor of
Omoa
near the south. There are several smaller valleys between these two.
The centre of the island is a
plateau
which is covered largely by tall grasses and
pandanus
trees. To the south of the plateau, running to the south, is a mountain ridge, called
Tauauoho
, its highest peak, at 1,125 m (3,691 ft.) is the highest point on Fatu-Hiva. Proceeding to the north and northwest from the plateau is a mountain ridge called Fa‘e One, the highest peak of which is 820 m (2,690 ft.).
Geology
[
edit
]
Fatu Hiva is formed by the eastern half of two interlocking
volcanoes
.
The first caldera, about eight kilometers in diameter, has a sharply cut rim, formed by a hemicircular series of peaks rising to over 1000 meters. It is composed mainly of basalt, picrite and hawaiite. Its age is dated between 2.46 and 1.81 million years. The second
caldera
, located within the first, has a diameter of three to four kilometers. It was created by a powerful
eruption
, as evidenced by the impressive basalt columns, the "statues" of the Virgin, in Hanavave Bay, caused by lahars. It dates to between 1.68 and 1.33 million years ago. The main explosion seems to date back to 1.40 Ma2.
The
valleys
of the two villages of the island are located at the extremes of the space between the two calderas.
Flora
[
edit
]
Horses at Fatu Hiva
The
landscape
surrounding the settlements in the coastal zone and in the valleys has been extensively remodelled for human food production, so little of the original vegetation remains. Massive interventions, already in historical times, probably caused the extinction of an unknown number of endemic and native plants in the lower and middle areas of the island. The present inhabitants cultivate breadfruit, coconut, yam, taro, sweet potatoes,
bananas
and other fruits.
The higher areas of the
mountainous
island are covered with mountain
rainforest
and cloud forest interspersed with tree ferns. Above 600 m, grass forests, with the trees
Metrosideros
sp. and
Pterophylla marquesana
, dominate. However, even these inaccessible areas are threatened as feral goats are seriously affecting the flora. Peak tops and extensive leeward areas of the mountains are arid.
The mountain rainforest still harbours some
endemic
plants, such as
Ochrosia fatuhivensis
and
Melicope fatuhivensis
(syn.
Pelea fatuhivensis
), a tree of the
Rutaceae
family which may already be
extinct
.
Pterophylla tremuloides
is an endemic shrub which grows in low ridge top and cliff shrubland with
Metrosideros
,
Dicranopteris
and
Lycopodium
from 700 to 850 metres elevation.
[8]
A systematic study of the flora with the support of the
Smithsonian Institution
in 1988 revealed the number of 175 native, 21 endemic, and 136 anthropochoric plants.
[9]
Fauna
[
edit
]
The rich
flora
contrasts with a relatively species-poor
fauna
. It is limited to land and sea birds, insects,
butterflies
, spiders and a single species of bat. The
Fatu Hiva monarch
(
Pomarea whitneyi
), a bird of the family
Monarchidae
, is endemic. Because Fatu Hiva is considered rat-free, efforts are underway to relocate endangered landbird species from other islands in the Marquesas. This has been successful, for example, with the
ultramarine lorikeet
(
Vini ultramarina
) of the parrot family.
Administration
[
edit
]
Administratively, Fatu-Hiva forms the
commune
(municipality) of Fatu-Hiva, part of the
administrative subdivision
of the
Marquesas Islands
.
[10]
The commune consists solely of Fatu-Hiva itself.
[11]
Its administrative seat is the settlement of
Omoa
,
[11]
on the island's southwestern side.
Demographics
[
edit
]
Fatu-Hiva's population was 584 at the 2002 census, 611 in 2012, and 600 in 2022.
[2]
Its main villages are Omoa, the capital and Hanavave, in the bays of the same name. The population lives mainly from agriculture, handicrafts and tourism. The island's
orography
does not allow the construction of an airstrip; it is accessible only by boat.
Fatu-Hiva experienced a demographic decline beginning in the late 1990s, mainly due to two types of
emigration
:
- School emigration, as there is no secondary school on the island and young people must leave at a young age—first to Hiva Oa, then to Papeete—to pursue their studies. Many do not return to Fatu-Hiva afterwards.
- Economic emigration, as the island's development prospects are limited by its isolation. It is the most remote of the islands of the
archipelago
, and its rugged terrain prevents the building of an airstrip.
However, since 2007 there has been a demographic recovery, with a 4% increase in five years, spread primarily across the villages of
Hana Vave
,
Omoa
and
Uia
.
Church of Our Lady of Peace (Eglise de Notre-Dame-de-Paix) in the town of Omoa
Religion
[
edit
]
The island was converted to
Christianity
by Catholic missionaries in 1877.
[12]
The
Catholic Church
administers two religious buildings on the island under the Diocese of Taiohae (
Dioecesis Taiohaenus
seu Humanae Telluris
or
Diocese de Taiohae
): The Church of
Saint Michael
in Hanavave (
Eglise de Saint-Michel
),
[13]
and the Church of
Our Lady of Peace
in Omoa (
Eglise de Notre-Dame-de-Paix
).
[14]
Economy
[
edit
]
The
primary sector
is still predominant, especially tuna, mackerel, bonito, swordfish and marlin fishing, as well as crayfish. The municipality has a cold storage facility that allows waiting for the arrival of cargo ships to sell the merchandise.
Copra cultivation
is still very important, as is the more recent cultivation of
noni
. Coffee cultivation was practically abandoned in the second half of the 20th century. For their personal needs, the inhabitants also hunt wild pigs and goats, and gather seafood and fruit in great abundance. They do not hesitate to offer fruit spontaneously to visitors.
Since the 1960s and 1970s,
handicrafts
have developed considerably, thanks mainly to tourism. The Island's speciality is the tapa. Today they are still made in the traditional way, mainly in monochrome. However, chemical dyes are now used instead of soot from the luminous walnut.
The currency is the CFP franc, which is pegged to the euro.
The islanders live mainly from subsistence farming. Selling
monoi
oil, carvings and painted bark raffia to infrequent cruise ship tourists and other sailors generates some income.
Tourism
[
edit
]
Baie des Vierges (Hanavave), Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
Tourism is limited due to the lack of an airport, though the island is visited by cruise ships.
[15]
There is only limited tourist infrastructure, with no banks, ATM machines or taxis,
[15]
and only limited accommodation.
[16]
Fatu Hiva has no bathing
beaches
.
The three-hour hike between the two villages is steep but offers views of the island, ocean and waterfalls.
[17]
The Grelet Museum in Omoa holds a collection of local artifacts, including war clubs, tikis and carved wood bowls.
[15]
Politics and government
[
edit
]
Politically, the island belongs to
French Polynesia
(Pays d'outre-mer - POM) and is therefore affiliated with the
European Union
. It is administered by a subdivision (
Subdivision administrative des Iles Marquises
) of the High Commissariat of the Republic in French Polynesia (
Haut-commissariat de la Republique en Polynesie francaise
) based in Papeete. Fatu Hiva forms an independent municipality (
Commune de Fatu Hiva
) with 636 inhabitants (2012),
[18]
the population density is about 7 inhabitants/km
2
.
The
official language
is French. The main town and administrative centre is the village of Omoa, on the west coast, with about 250 inhabitants.
Infrastructure
[
edit
]
Hanavave village and harbour, Fatu Hiva Island
The inhabitants of this 8,400
hectare
island live mainly in the villages of Omoa and Hanavave, on the west coast, which are connected by a dirt road through the mountains. The largest of the villages is Omoa, with a
Catholic church
, a nursery and elementary
school
, a small shop, a post office and a
satellite telephone
. Fatu Hiva has no paved roads between the two villages, no harboir dock for large ships and no airfield. Safe landing on the difficult-to-access coast is only possible in the two bays on the west coast, where the villages are also located.
The seventeen-kilometre road linking the two
villages
is very bumpy, especially near Hanavave, and the rains often make the road sweeping and dangerous for traffic. The inhabitants prefer to use a
boat
to reach the other village, which takes about 15 minutes.
Fatu Hiva in literature
[
edit
]
The island became better known through the
book of the same name
by
Thor Heyerdahl
, who spent about eight months on the island in 1937 with his first wife Liv in a self-imposed
robinsonade
.
[19]
The couple lived first near the west coast in the Omoa Valley, and later on the east coast in Ouia, which is now uninhabited. In 1937 there was also an old man named Tei Tetua, by his own account the son of one of the last true cannibals, who lived there accompanied by his twelve-year-old adopted daughter.
A first book about the stay was published in 1938 by Gyldendal in
Oslo
, sold poorly despite the best reviews and was never translated, probably also because of the
war
. Heyerdahl's well-known book Fatu Hiva was later rewritten, according to the author's note: After the success of his book his first work had become outdated.
[20]
In
Jack London
's short story collection "A Son of the Sun", the island appears under the name Fitu-Iva. In the story "Feathers of the Sun," Fitu-Iva falls under the influence of a cunning
Solomon Islands
swindler
who, with the connivance of the ever-elusive chief, introduces paper money and exchanges all valuables for domestically manufactured currency. When the fraud is discovered, he is beaten with a dead pig, a particularly dishonorable punishment, and banished from the island.
[21]
See also
[
edit
]
References
[
edit
]
- ^
"Repertoire national des elus: les maires"
(in French). data.gouv.fr, Plateforme ouverte des donnees publiques francaises. 13 September 2022.
- ^
a
b
"Les resultats du recensement de la population 2022 de Polynesie francaise"
[Results of the 2022 population census of French Polynesia]
(PDF)
(in French). Institut de la statistique de la Polynesie francaise. January 2023.
- ^
a
b
Eve Sivadjian, , Paris, Autrement,
coll.
≪ Monde / HS n°16 ≫, 30 septembre 1999, 231
p.
- ^
Ralph Linton:
Archaeology of the Marqueas Islands
, Bernice P. Bishop Bulletin Nr. 23, Honolulu 1925, S. 181?185
- ^
Annie Baert, ≪ Alvaro de Mendana (1542-1595), un explorateur du Pacifique sud au destin tragique ≫
- ^
Sharp, Andrew
The discovery of the Pacific Islands
Clarendon Press, Oxford, 1960, p.51.
- ^
Thor Heyerdahl (
trad.
de l'anglais par Aliette Henri Martin), [≪ Fatu-Hiva Back to Nature ≫], Papeete, Les Editions du Pacifique, 1976, 355
p.
- ^
Hopkins, Helen C.F. and Florence, Jacques, 1998. A revision of
Weinmannia
(Cunoniaceae) in Malesia and the Pacific. 4. The Society, Marquesas and Austral Islands.
Adansonia
Ser. 3, 20 (1) 1998.
- ^
Jacques Florence and David H. Lorence:
Introduction to the Flora and Vegetation of the Marquesas Islands
. In:
Allertonia
, Vol. 7, February 1997, S. 226?237, ISSN 0735-8032
- ^
Decret n° 2005-1611 du 20 decembre 2005 pris pour l'application du statut d'autonomie de la Polynesie francaise
Archived
2019-03-27 at the
Wayback Machine
,
Legifrance
- ^
a
b
Decret n°72-407 du 17 mai 1972 portant creation de communes dans le territoire de la Polynesie francaise
Archived
2019-12-21 at the
Wayback Machine
,
Legifrance
- ^
David Stanley (2004).
Moon Handbooks South Pacific
. Avalon Publishing. p. 284.
- ^
"Eglise de Saint-Michel"
.
GCatholic
. Retrieved
2021-09-10
.
- ^
"Eglise de Notre-Dame-de-Paix"
.
GCatholic
. Retrieved
2021-09-10
.
- ^
a
b
c
"Points Of Interest"
. Paul Gauguin Cruises
. Retrieved
24 January
2022
.
- ^
"Fatu Hiva"
. Hillman Quality Publications
. Retrieved
24 January
2022
.
- ^
"Finding Eden in the Marquesas"
. Los Angeles Times. 5 November 2017
. Retrieved
24 January
2022
.
Later that day I visited the Fatu Hiva village of Hanavave, a steep 10-mile hike from Omoa. But the hard work was worth it. I was surrounded by spectacular scenery, saw frigate birds and gulls soaring across the blue sky and heard the music of streams and waterfalls as they bounced off rocks near the trail.
- ^
Institut Statistique de Polynesie Francaise (ISPF) ? Recensement de la population 2012
- ^
Thor Heyerdahl:
Fatu Hiva ? Zuruck zur Natur
, Bertelsmann-Verlag, Munchen-Gutersloh-Wien; Neuauflage: Goldmann-Verlag. Munchen 1996, ISBN 3-442-08943-3
- ^
Heyerdahl,
Fatu Hiva
S. 19.
- ^
Jack London:
Ein Sohn der Sonne und andere Sudseegeschichten
(Originaltitel:
A Son of the Sun
), Universitas-Verlag, Berlin 1926
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