Path to scale a mountain, rock, or ice wall
A
climbing route
(
German
:
Kletterrouten
) is a path by which a
climber
reaches the top of a
mountain
, or rock/ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a
climbing guidebook
and/or in an online climbing route database, and will include elements such as the type of climbing route (e.g.
bouldering
route,
sport climbing
route,
traditional climbing
route,
ice climbing
route, and
alpine climbing
route, etc.), the
difficulty grade
of the route?and
beta
on its
crux
(es)?and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of
pitches
of the route, and the
climbing equipment
(e.g.
climbing protection
gear) needed to complete the route.
There are definitions as to what is a valid ascent of a route (e.g. the
redpoint
in rock climbing), and the class of ascent (e.g.
onsighted
,
flashed
). The
first ascent
,
first free ascent
, and
first female free ascent
, are often recorded for important routes. After a route is established, variations can be created (e.g.
directessimas
,
sit starts
, or
enchainments
), and climbers will try to improve the "style" in which the route is climbed (e.g. minimizing
aid climbing
or other supports such as oxygen or
fixed ropes
). Some climbers limit the in-situ protection (e.g.
greenpointing
), or even
free solo
the route. Others set
speed climbing
records on routes.
The ascent of ever-harder routes is an integral key part of the history of climbing, and each type of climbing has notable routes that set major new
milestones
. There are ongoing debates amongst climbers about routes including the naming of routes, the creation of new routes by artificially altering the surface (e.g.
chipping
in rock climbing), the role of completely artificial indoor routes (e.g.
The Project
), the level and maintenance of in-situ protection on routes (e.g. providing permanent bolted protection anchors) and the ethical issue of
retro-bolting
(e.g. turning traditional climbing routes into safer sport climbing bolted routes).
Details
[
edit
]
Climbing routes are usually chronicled in a
climbing guidebook
, a climbing journal (e.g. the
American Alpine Journal
or the
Himalayan Journal
), and/or in an online route database (e.g.
theCrag.com
or
MountainProject.com
),
[1]
where the key details of the route are listed, which generally include the following:
[2]
- Climbing area
(or crag). Routes are often clustered together in a general "climbing area", which is also known as a "
crag
". Notable climbing areas include:
El Capitan
(for
big wall climbing
in the US),
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
(for
traditional climbing
in the UK),
Buoux
,
Verdon Gorge
and
Ceuse
(for
sport climbing
in France).
[2]
- Route name. While rock and modern ice climbing routes can have any name, offensive names are removed from databases and guidebooks.
[3]
In countries such as France the person who created the route names it, whereas in others such as the US and UK, the first person to ascend the route names it (e.g. the
Realization/Biographie
controversy).
[4]
Alpine routes tend to have names based on the peak or the first ascender and the geological feature, such as the
Bonatti Pillar
or the
Walker Spur
.
[2]
- Type and condition of the surface. Different types of rock, such as
limestone
,
granite
, or
sandstone
, present different challenges in terms of friction and types of holds. The typical condition of the rock (e.g. solid or crumbling, or dry and damp) might be noted. Ice climbers will differentiate between the type of ice (e.g. water ice, permanent alpine ice), and the stability of the ice surface (e.g. sheet ice, thick ice).
[2]
- Type of climb and equipment requirements. A key detail is whether
climbing protection
is already in-situ (i.e.
sport climbing
), or must be inserted while climbing (i.e.
traditional climbing
). The protection equipment needed on traditional climbing routes will vary depending on the type of challenge presented (e.g.
crack climbing
,
slab climbing
, etc.). Some routes may require
aid climbing
and/or
abseiling
equipment.
[2]
- Length and number of
pitches
. A key detail is the length of the route, which can vary from a few metres for a
bouldering
route, to several thousand metres for a
big wall climbing
or
alpine climbing
route. Longer routes are broken up into "
pitches
", which are less than a rope length; climbers will
lead
each pitch one at a time. For example,
The Nose
is over 880-metres long, and breaks up into 31-pitches.
[2]
- Graphical
topo
of the route. Most guidebooks will include a photograph or drawing showing the line of the route. For more complicated routes (and for longer
multi-pitch
routes), a more detailed "topo" (short for topographic) illustration will include symbols for key obstacles (e.g. roofs, overhangs, aretes) and key features (e.g. corners, cracks) encountered on the route;
[2]
and information on the
crux
(es).
[5]
- Grade
of technical difficulty and risk. Routes are graded for their technical difficulty ? particularly for the
crux
(es) ? and the availability of adequate protection. Each route type will use the appropriate grading system such as:
boulder grades
,
sport grades
,
traditional grades
,
aid grades
, or
ice grades
.
Big wall grade
and
alpine grade
systems have additional grades for the level of commitment and seriousness of the route.
[2]
- Estimated timings (for longer routes). Multi-pitch climbs and the even-longer big wall and alpine climbs will include details of the estimated timetable for the route, which might go from hours to several days and weeks. These timings may include additional information on key milestones that need to be reached in a given time to achieve the overall route timetable and to complete the route safely with sufficient provisions.
[2]
- History of
first ascent
(FA),
first free ascent
(FFA), and
first female free ascent
(FFFA). Guidebooks record the first person(s) to do the FA, FFA, and FFFA of the route. Information may be recorded regarding the "style" of the ascent and whether it was practiced beforehand by
top roping
. The level of aid used for the FA might be recorded, as well as near-FFAs that used minor aid. On alpine routes, the
first winter ascent
is recorded.
[2]
- Popularity and other feedback. Modern guidebooks will also include some manner of popularity rating for individual routes in a climbing area (e.g. awarding 3-stars to the most popular/best-regarded routes, which are often called "classics").
[1]
They may also include additional climber feedback (or
beta
) on the route such as whether it requires muscle power, balance/footwork, or strong fingers to be successful.
[2]
Terminology
[
edit
]
Ascent of routes
[
edit
]
The definition of what is classed as a valid ascent of a rock climbing route is called a
redpoint
.
[6]
Many routes may not be climbed on the first attempt, and will require days (and in some cases, years) of attempts; when a climber undertakes such a task, it is sometimes called
projecting
a route (i.e. the route becomes a "project").
[6]
When a climber does climb the route on their first attempt without any falls and without any prior knowledge of how to climb the route (which is called
beta
), it is known as an
onsight
;
[6]
where the climber had prior beta on the route, it is known as a
flash
.
[6]
Alpine climbers distinguish whether the ascent was made in summer or in the more difficult winter season (e.g. it was not until 2021 that
K2
was climbed in winter).
[7]
Style of route ascents
[
edit
]
Climbers will also seek to improve the "style" in which a route is climbed. A route that uses a lot of aid climbing will be reclimbed with less and less aid until it is eventually "
free climbed
" (i.e. using no aid, either as a sport or a traditional climb).
[6]
[8]
Greenpointing
refers to the process of even removing any existing in-situ sport climbing protection
bolts
to ascend the route as a
cleaner
traditional climb.
[9]
[10]
Alpine climbers seek to complete established high-altitude "
expedition style
" routes in
alpine style
with no supplemental oxygen or any
fixed ropes
, and even
alone
.
[11]
Free solo climbers
seek to ascend a route with no protection equipment whatsoever (e.g. as in the 2018 film,
Free Solo
).
[12]
Some big wall climbers set
speed
records on routes (e.g.
The Nose
).
[13]
[8]
Variations of routes
[
edit
]
When a climbing route has been established, variations may be added, a typical one being a more "direct" line (e.g. a direct start or direct finish) of the original route, also called a
direttissima
in alpine climbing, and thus not avoiding the difficult obstacles that the original route went around (e.g. a roof or an overhang, or a section with minimal holds).
[14]
Boulder climbers might add a harder
sit start
"SS" (or sit-down-start, "SDS") variation to a boulder route (e.g. the SDS of
Dreamtime
is graded well above the standing start version).
[15]
Alpine and big wall climbers often seek to link established routes together in a larger
enchainment
(or "link-up") route (e.g. the notable
Moonwalk Traverse
of the entire
Cerro Chalten Group
in
Patagonia
).
[16]
The straightforward and frequently used (and usually easiest and often the original) route up a
mountain peak
is often called the
normal route
(
French
:
voie normale
;
German
:
Normalweg
) in mountaineering.
[17]
Debates
[
edit
]
Naming of routes
[
edit
]
Traditionally, in many countries, the person who made the first ascent of a route was allowed to name it (in France, the naming rights go to whoever first bolted the route);
[4]
this concept of "naming ownership" by the first ascensionist led to inertia with regard to the changing of problematic names including route names that were vulgar or had racial, sexual, colonial, discriminatory or other, slurs, tropes or stereotyping.
[18]
[19]
[20]
In 2020, the climbing community more directly confronted the issue of problematic names.
[18]
[21]
In June 2020, climbing author Andrew Bisharat wrote in
Rock & Ice
that "routes belong to us all. That should include their names" in regard to changing problematic names.
[18]
[22]
At the same time, Duane Raleigh, the editor of
Rock & Ice
, stepped down from his post recognizing some problematic names that he had given his own routes in the past.
[18]
The debate intensified, reaching national media attention in countries around the world,
[23]
[24]
and was described as climbing's "#MeToo" moment.
[25]
In 2021, the
American Alpine Club
created the "Climb United" initiative to bring magazine editors, guidebook publishers and database managers, and other climbing community leaders together to create principles for naming routes that would "Build the best publishing practices to avoid harm caused by discriminatory or oppressive route names".
[26]
Many climbing guidebook publishers and route databases introduced policies to redact inappropriate route names,
[27]
including the largest online databases,
theCrag.com
,
[3]
and
MountainProject.com
(who had redacted 6,000 names in the first year).
[28]
Manufactured or artificial routes
[
edit
]
Some climbers have physically altered the natural rock surface to "construct" a route (or make a route more climbable), by cutting or expanding handholds,
[29]
which is also known as
chipping
.
[30]
Such acts have at times caused controversy (e.g.
Fred Rouhling
's
Akira
and
Hugh
), but at other times has not (e.g.
Antoine Le Menestrel
[
fr
]
's famous
Buoux
route,
La Rose et la Vampire
).
[31]
A 2022 survey by
Climbing
showed climbers were largely against manufacturing routes on natural outdoor rock on public lands, but were less negative on private lands (or on routes in quarries); they were willing to allow "cleaning" of routes (which some consider manufacturing), and also the repairing of routes (e.g. gluing back broken holds).
[30]
In contrast,
indoor climbing
is done on completely artificially manufactured sport climbing routes on
climbing walls
, as is
competition climbing
where a
route setter
manufactures a completely new route for each stage of the competition.
[32]
In 2017,
Black Diamond Equipment
launched "The Project" on an indoor climbing wall in Sweden, with the aim of creating the world's hardest sport climbing route at circa.
5.15d
(9c); it was later deconstructed having never been fully ascended, despite attempts by some of the world's best climbers, including
Adam Ondra
,
Stefano Ghisolfi
, and
Alex Megos
.
[33]
Since then, other "Project-type" routes have been created on other climbing walls, with the goal of being the world's hardest route.
[33]
Permanent-protection and retro-bolting of routes
[
edit
]
There has been a long-term debate in the climbing world on the use of permanently fixed in-situ climbing protection (e.g. such as
bolts
or
pitons
) on climbing routes.
[34]
Such protection is not to provide aid (i.e. it is not aid-climbing per se), but to increase the safety of the route.
[34]
Climbers call routes that have such protection, "
sport climbing routes
" (i.e. there is no risk, so it is purely a sport).
[34]
In the 1980s and 1990s in the US, this debate became so heated that it was known as the "bolt wars", with climbers
bolt chopping
(i.e. removing in-situ protection) on routes they considered to be traditional-only routes (i.e. no in-situ protection).
[34]
While all indoor climbing routes are bolted sport routes, the use of bolts in the outdoor natural environment raised environmental considerations, which led to the development of the
clean climbing
movement.
[34]
Other objections to pre-bolted protection highlighted the effect that such protection had on the very nature and challenge of a climbing route.
[35]
In 1971, Italian mountaineer
Reinhold Messner
wrote a famous essay called
The Murder of the Impossible
(which was believed to have been inspired by the 400-bolt
Compressor Route
), challenging that the use of such protection was diminishing the nature of mountaineering, saying of such climbers: "he carries his courage in his rucksack, in the form of bolts and equipment".
[35]
Such concerns also relate to the debate on
retro-bolting
of traditional climbing routes, which is the conversion into safer sport climbing routes,
[36]
but that also fundamentally alters the nature of the route challenge.
[37]
Notable routes
[
edit
]
Rock climbing
[
edit
]
- Bouldering
. Two of the most famous bouldering routes in history are
Midnight Lightning
V8
(7B/7B+) in
California
, and
Dreamtime
V15
(8C) in Switzerland.
[38]
Other notable bouldering routes include
Gioia
[
fr
]
in Italy, the world's first-ever
V16
(8C+) graded route, and
Burden of Dreams
in Finland, the world's first-ever
V17
(9A) graded route.
[39]
- Sport climbing
. Two of the most famous sport climbing routes in history are
Action Directe
in Germany, the world's first-ever
9a
(5.14d) route, and
Realization/Biographie
in France, the world's first consensus
9a+
(5.15a) route.
[40]
Other notable sport climbing routes include
Jumbo Love
in Nevada, the world's first-ever
9b
(5.15b) sport route, and
Silence
in Norway, the world's first-ever
9c
(5.15d) sport route.
[41]
[42]
- Traditional climbing
. Traditional climbing was at the origin of
free climbing
, and many countries have their own notable traditional routes (e.g.
Indian Face
in Britain). Routes that set important milestones include
Grand Illusion
in
Lake Tahoe
, first
8a
(5.13b),
The Phoenix
in
Yosemite
, first
7c+
(5.13a) and the first-ever use of "friends", and
Super Crack
in the
Shawangunks
, early consensus
7b+
(5.12c).
[40]
Notable contemporary traditional climbing routes include
Cobra Crack
in Canada,
Rhapsody
in Britain,
Blackbeard’s Tears
and
Meltdown
in the US, and
Tribe
in Italy.
[43]
- Big wall climbing
and
aid climbing
. Many of the most famous aid climbing routes were on big wall routes, which eventually became
free climbing
routes. The most famous route is
The Nose
whose aid ascent at 5.9 A2 was a major milestone in climbing, as was its eventual freeing at 5.14a.
El Capitan
has several other famous aid/big wall routes such as
Salathe Wall
(5.9 A2 aid, or 5.13b free) and the Salathe variant,
Freerider
, the most famous big wall free solo in history, and
Dawn Wall
, the first-ever 9a big wall route in history.
[44]
[45]
Notable European routes are the various north faces of the
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
in the
Dolomites
(e.g.
Bellavista
[
it
]
), and on the southwest face of the
Aiguille du Dru
in France (e.g.
Bonatti Pillar
).
[45]
Ice climbing
[
edit
]
- Ice climbing
. Notable ice routes include the first to get near/above the WI6 grade milestone (i.e. sheer vertical sustained ice) such as
Gimme Shelter
,
Riptide
, and
Sea of Vapours
in the
Canadian Rockies
,
[46]
and
Repentance Super
in the
Val di Cogne
in Italy.
[47]
Since 2010,
Helmcken Falls
in Canada has produced overhanging ice climbs above the WI10 grade, including
Mission to Mars
the world's first-ever WI13 graded ice route.
[46]
- Mixed climbing
. The most famous route is
Jeff Lowe
's
Octopussy
WI6 M8 R, which started the mixed climbing revolution; this was followed by early consensus M10-12 routes in Europe and North America such as
Reptile
in Vail, Colorado,
X-files
and
Empire Strikes Back
in
Val di Cogne
, and
Musashi
in Canada.
[48]
Iron Man
in Switzerland became the world's first consensus M14, and also the world's first-ever FFFA of an M14.
[49]
- Dry tooling
. Notable routes include
Bichette Light
in France, the world's first-ever D14 (and with no mixed/ice component). The Tomorrow's World Cave in the
Dolomites
in Italy produced the world's first-ever consensus D15 (
A Line Above the Sky
), and consensus D16 (
Parallel World
) routes.
[50]
Mountaineering
[
edit
]
- Alpine climbing
. One of the most famous alpine climbing routes is the
1938 Heckmair Route
(ED2 V? A0 60 degrees), on the north face of the
Eiger
. The route is also one of the famous six alpine routes that first ascended the
great north faces of the Alps
. As alpine climbing spread outside of the Alps, famous
alpine style
routes were established on Himalayan peaks such as
Latok I
,
The Ogre
,
Changabang
, and
Jannu
.
- Expedition climbing
. The most famous expedition climbing routes involve the
eight-thousanders
, which are the 14 mountains in the
Himalayas
and the
Karakoram
that are above 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above
sea level
. While reaching the summits of eight-thousanders by any route was once considered a major milestone, the development of even harder climbs on their faces and pillars has created several famous routes amongst climbers including the "Rupal Face" on
Nanga Parbat
and the "Magic Line" on
K2
's southwest pillar; both of which have been tried by alpine climbers.
See also
[
edit
]
References
[
edit
]
- ^
a
b
Adamson, Michael (6 February 2009).
"The Guidebook Odyssey ? Unearthing the epic task of writing a guidebook"
.
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. Retrieved
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a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
Ryan, Mick; James, Alan (July 2002).
How to write ... a MiniGuide
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a
b
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.
theCrag
. 2023
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- ^
a
b
Carpenter, Hayden (25 December 2017).
"Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)"
.
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.
- ^
Robinson, Doug (23 March 2023).
"Guidebooks Are Still a Problem"
.
Climbing
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.
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a
b
c
d
e
Andrew Bisharat (6 October 2009). "Chapter 9: Onsighting: Strategies for Success on Routes".
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.
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. pp. 192?200.
ISBN
978-1594852701
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- ^
Beaumont, Peter (16 January 2021).
"Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of a route on K2"
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a
b
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- ^
"Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura"
.
PlanetMountain
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. Retrieved
22 December
2022
.
- ^
"Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura"
.
PlanetMountain
. 7 November 2011
. Retrieved
22 December
2022
.
Greenpoint? OK redpoint, even pinkpoint is tried and tested (i.e. with gear already pre-placed) . But greenpoint? Ay yes, it's the term used to define climbing a sport route without the bolts but using trad gear such as nuts and camming devices! What might at first glance seem somewhat contorted is in fact a movement that is gaining popularity.
- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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the original
on June 23, 2021
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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.
PlanetMountain
. 18 September 2009
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Copeland, Victor (15 October 2022).
"The Weird Origins Of Bouldering's Sit Start"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
McDonald, Dougald (18 February 2014).
"Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse "Mega Route"
"
.
Rock & Ice
. Retrieved
26 August
2023
.
- ^
Hartemann, Frederic; Hauptman, Robert (2005-06-15).
The Mountain Encyclopedia: An A to Z Compendium of Over 2,250 Terms, Concepts, Ideas, and People
. Taylor Trade Publishing.
ISBN
9781461703310
.
- ^
a
b
c
d
Tabachnik, Sam (17 January 2021).
"Inside rock climbing's rancorous debate over offensive route names"
.
The Denver Post
. Retrieved
26 August
2023
.
- ^
Dobner, Sarah-Jane (19 June 2019).
"The Perfect Line: Naming and Claiming"
.
UKClimbing
. Retrieved
26 August
2023
.
- ^
Anderssen, Erin (27 June 2019).
"Naming and shaming: How climbers are wrestling with the sport's tradition of naming routes"
.
The Globe and Mail
. Retrieved
26 August
2023
.
- ^
Buhay, Corey (25 August 2020).
"Rated R: Should Obscene or Offensive Routes Be Renamed?"
.
Climbing
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Bisharat, Andrew (25 June 2020).
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.
Rock & Ice
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
Kandula, Ikya (19 May 2021).
"The Racism of the Great Outdoors"
.
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. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
"Austrian climbers at odds over far-right dogwhistle route names"
.
Agence France-Presse
. 9 November 2022
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
Marx, David (11 August 2020).
"Rock climbing's new-found popularity uncovers dark past of unsavoury route names, sparking its #MeToo moment"
.
ABC Australia
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
"Climb United: A Modern Rethinking of Route Names"
.
Gripped Magazine
. 8 April 2021
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
Pullan, Brandon (23 September 2020).
"Offensive Rock Climb Names in Squamish Changed"
.
Gripped Magazine
. Retrieved
26 August
2023
.
- ^
Samet, Matt (30 March 2023).
"Harmful vs. Offensive: The Troublesome Debate Over Climbing Route Names"
.
GearJunkie
. Retrieved
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2023
.
- ^
Heller, Brad (27 December 2016).
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
Dawn, Stefani (6 June 2022).
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.
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.
- ^
Ward, Pete (2004).
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Walker, Noah (3 May 2021).
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
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a
b
Miller, Delaney (12 November 2021).
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.
Climbing
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
c
d
e
Andrew Bisharat (6 October 2009). "Chapter 1: Ethics, Style and the Emergence of Sport Climbing".
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.
Mountaineers Books
. pp. 31?34.
ISBN
978-1594852701
. Retrieved
23 August
2023
.
Bolt Wars
- ^
a
b
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External links
[
edit
]
- theCrag
, Europe's largest online rock climbing route database
- MountainProject
, North America's largest online rock and ice climbing route database
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