French luxury goods conglomerate owned by Swiss Richemont Group
Cartier International SNC
|
|
Company type
| Subsidiary
|
---|
Industry
| Retail
|
---|
Founded
| 1847
; 177 years ago
(
1847
)
|
---|
Founder
| Louis-Francois Cartier
|
---|
Headquarters
| Paris
,
France
|
---|
Area served
| Worldwide
|
---|
Key people
| Cyrille Vigneron (CEO)
|
---|
Products
| |
---|
Revenue
| $6.2 billion (2020)
[1]
|
---|
Parent
| Richemont
|
---|
Website
| www
.cartier
.com
|
---|
Cartier International SNC
, or simply
Cartier
(
KAR
-tee-ay
,
French:
[ka?tje]
), is a French luxury-goods
conglomerate
that designs, manufactures, distributes, and sells jewellery, leather goods, watches, sunglasses and eyeglasses.
[2]
[3]
[4]
Founded by
Louis-Francois Cartier
(1819?1904) in Paris in 1847, the company remained under family control until 1964.
[4]
The company is headquartered in Paris and is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swiss
Richemont Group
.
[5]
[6]
Cartier operates more than 200 stores in 125 countries, with three Temples (Historical Maisons) in Paris, London, and New York City.
[6]
[7]
Cartier is regarded as one of the most prestigious jewellery manufacturers.
[4]
[8]
[9]
[10]
[11]
[12]
Forbes
ranked Cartier on its Most Valuable Brands list as 56th in 2020, with a brand value of $12.2 B and revenue of $6.2 B.
[1]
[13]
Cartier has a long history of sales to royalty.
[14]
King Edward VII
referred to Cartier as "the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers".
[4]
[15]
For his
coronation
in 1902, Edward VII ordered 27
tiaras
and issued a
royal warrant
to Cartier in 1904.
[4]
[16]
Similar warrants soon followed from the courts of Spain, Portugal, Serbia, Russia and the
House of Orleans
. The largest ever single order to date was made in 1925 by the
Indian royalty
, the
Maharaja of Patiala
, for the
Patiala Necklace
and other jewelry worth
?
1,000 million
(equivalent to
?
210 billion, US$2.6 billion or €2.6 billion in 2023).
[17]
History
[
edit
]
Early history
[
edit
]
Louis-Francois Cartier
founded Cartier in Paris in 1847 when he took over the workshop of his master, Adolphe Picard.
[18]
In 1874, Louis-Francois' son Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons
Louis
,
Pierre
, and
Jacques
who established the brand name worldwide.
[18]
Louis ran the Paris branch, moving to the
Rue de la Paix
in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, such as the mystery clocks (a type of clock with a transparent dial and so named because its mechanism is hidden), fashionable wristwatches and exotic orientalist
Art Deco
designs, including the colorful "Tutti Frutti" jewels.
[19]
[20]
[21]
In 1904, Brazilian pioneer aviator,
Alberto Santos-Dumont
complained to his friend Louis Cartier of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Cartier designed a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel that was favored by Santos-Dumont and many other customers.
[22]
This was the first and only time the brand would name a watch after its original wearer.
[23]
The "Santos" watch was Cartier's first men's wristwatch. In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches.
[24]
Among the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau, who joined
Louis Cartier
in 1909 for the rest of his life, and
Jeanne Toussaint
, who was Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933.
Pierre Cartier established a New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to
653 Fifth Avenue
, the
Neo-Renaissance
mansion of Morton Freeman Plant (son of railroad tycoon
Henry B. Plant
), designed by architect
C.P.H. Gilbert
.
[25]
Cartier purchased it from the Plants in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million.
[26]
By this time, Cartier had branches in London, New York and
Saint Petersburg
and was quickly becoming one of the most successful watch companies.
[11]
[3]
Designed by Louis Cartier, the
Tank
watch was introduced in 1919 and was inspired by the newly introduced
tanks
on the
Western Front
in
World War I
.
[18]
In the early 1920s, Cartier formed a
joint-stock company
with Edward Jaeger (of
Jaeger-LeCoultre
) to produce movements solely for Cartier. Cartier continued to use movements from other makers:
Vacheron Constantin
,
Audemars Piguet
,
Movado
, and
LeCoultre
. It was also during this period that Cartier began adding its own reference numbers its watches by stamping a four-digit code on the underside of a lug. Jacques took charge of the London operations and eventually moved to the current address at
New Bond Street
.
Re-organization
[
edit
]
After the death of Pierre in 1964, Jean-Jacques Cartier (Jacques's son), Claude Cartier (Louis's son), and Marion Cartier Claudel (Pierre's daughter)?who respectively headed the Cartier affiliates in London, New York, and Paris?sold the businesses.
In 1972, Robert Hocq, assisted by a group of investors led by Joseph Kanoui, bought
Cartier Paris
.
[27]
In 1974 and 1976, respectively, the group repurchased
Cartier London
and
Cartier New York,
thus reconnecting Cartier worldwide.
[27]
The new president of Cartier, Robert Hocq, coined the phrase "Les Must de Cartier" (a staff member is said to have said "Cartier, It's a must!" meaning something one simply must have) with Alain Dominique Perrin, who was a General Director of the company.
[28]
[29]
As a result, in 1976, "Les Must de Cartier" became a
diffusion line
of Cartier, with Alain D. Perrin being its CEO.
[30]
[31]
[32]
In 1979, the Cartier interests were combined, with
Cartier Monde
uniting and controlling Cartier Paris, London, and New York. Joseph Kanoui became vice president of Cartier Monde. In December 1979, following the accidental death of president Robert Hocq, Nathalie Hocq (daughter of Hocq) became president.
[27]
[32]
Recent development
[
edit
]
In 1981, Alain Dominique Perrin was appointed Chairman of Cartier SAA and Cartier International.
[29]
[31]
The next year, Micheline Kanoui, wife of Joseph Kanoui, became head of jewellery design and launched her first collection "Nouvelle Joaillerie."
[30]
In 1984, Perrin founded the
Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain
to bring Cartier into the twenty-first century, by forming an association with living artists. In 1986, the French Ministry for Culture appointed Perrin head of the "Mission sur le mecenat d'entreprise" (a commission to study business patronage of the arts). Two years later, Cartier gained a majority holding in
Piaget
and
Baume & Mercier
. From 1989 to 1990, the Musee du Petit Palais staged an exhibition of the Cartier collection, "L'Art de Cartier."
[33]
Perrin founded an international committee in 1991,
Comite International de la Haute Horlogerie
, to organize its first salon, held on 15 April 1991; this has become an annual meeting place in Geneva for professionals in this field. The next year, the second exhibition of "L'Art de Cartier" was held at the
Hermitage Museum
in
St Petersburg
. In 1993, the "Vendome Luxury Group" was formed as an umbrella company to combine Cartier,
Dunhill
,
Montblanc
, Piaget, Baume & Mercier,
Karl Lagerfeld
,
Chloe
, Sulka,
Hackett
, and Seeger.
[34]
In 1994, the Cartier Foundation moved to the Rive Gauche and opened headquarters in a building designed for it by
Jean Nouvel
. The next year, a major exhibition of the Cartier Antique Collection was held in Asia. In 1996, the Lausanne Hermitage Foundation in Switzerland exhibited "Splendours of the Jewellery", presenting a hundred and fifty years of products by Cartier.
[35]
In 2012, Cartier was owned, through
Richemont
, by the South African
Rupert family
, and Elle Pagels, a 24-year-old granddaughter of Pierre Cartier.
[36]
[37]
Managing directors
[
edit
]
- Laurent E. Feniou
? (25 March 2013?present).
[38]
- Rupert J. Brooks ? (16 December 2015?present).
[39]
- Francois M. J. R. Le Troquer ? (1 September 2010 ? 28 March 2013).
[40]
- Bernard M. Fornas ? (21 January 2003 ? 16 December 2015).
[41]
- Guy J. Leymarie ? (2 September 2002 ? 28 October 2002).
[42]
- Grieg O. Catto ? (2 April ? present).
[43]
- Denys E. Pasche ? (2 April 2002 ? 17 July 2002).
[44]
- David W. Merriman ? (2 April 2002 ? 17 July 2002).
[45]
- Richard P. Lepeu ? (1 November 2000 ? 1 April 2002).
[46]
- Sophie Cagnard ? (1 November 2000 ? 1 April 2002).
[47]
- Gerard S. Djaoui ? (12 June 1997 ? 1 April 2002).
[48]
- Francois Meffre ? (11 June 1993 ? 28 September 2000).
[49]
- Richard N. Thornby ? (11 June 1993 ? 7 October 1996).
[50]
- Luigi Blank ? (11 June 1993 ? 1 April 2002).
[51]
- Joseph W. Allgood ? (22 June 1992 ? 8 April 1993).
[52]
- Arnaud M. Bamberger
? (4 June 1992 ? 16 December 2015).
[53]
- Mario Soares ? (22 June 1991 ? 5 March 2002).
[54]
- Joseph Kanoui ? (22 June 1991 ? 31 January 2000).
[55]
- William A. Craddock ? (22 June 1991 ? 31 October 1997).
[56]
- Christopher H. B. Honeyborne ? (22 June 1991 ? 31 October 1997).
[57]
- Pierre Haquet ? (22 June 1991 ? 8 April 1993).
[58]
- Phillipe Leopold-Metzger ? (22 June 1991 ? 4 June 1992).
[59]
Jewelry and watch manufacturing
[
edit
]
Notable products
[
edit
]
- 1911 ? Launch of Santos de Cartier wristwatch.
[3]
- 1918 ? Creation of batons for Field-Marshals Foch and Petain.
- 1919 ? Launch of the Tank watch.
[3]
- 1921 ? Creation of the Tank cintree watch.
- 1922 ? Creation of the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Chinoise watches.
- 1923 ? Creation of the first portico mystery clock, crowned with a statuette called Billiken.
- 1926 ? Creation of the Baguette watch. Cartier jewellery in its red box appeared on the Broadway stage in Anita Loos' play
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes
.
[60]
- 1928 ? Creation of the Tortue single push-piece chronograph watch.
[3]
- 1929 ? Creation of the Tank a guichets watch.
- 1931 ? Creation of the mystery pocket watch.
- 1932 ? Creation of the Tank basculante watch.
- 1933 ? Cartier filed a patent for the "invisible mount", a stone-setting technique in which the metal of the mount disappears to show only the stones.
- 1936 ? Creation of the Tank asymetrique watch.
- 1942 ? Creation of the "Caged Bird" brooch as a symbol of the Occupation.
[3]
- 1944 ? Cartier created the "Freed Bird" to celebrate the Liberation of France.
- 1950 ? Creation of a watch in the form of a ship's wheel.
- 1967 ? Creation of new watches in London including the Crash.
- 1968 ? Creation of the Maxi Oval watch.
- 1969 ? Creation of the Love bracelet.
[3]
- 1969 First inclusion of a Cartier Chronometer in a
Luxury Car
- 1971 ? Creation of the Juste un Clou bracelet at Cartier New York.
- 1973 ? Creation of Les Must de Cartier by Robert Hocq with Alain-Dominique Perrin.
[3]
- 1974 ? Launch of the first leather collection in burgundy.
- 1976 ? First collection of Les Must de Cartier vermeil watches. Creation of the first oval pen.
- 1978 ? Creation of the Santos de Cartier watch with a gold and steel bracelet. Creation of the first Cartier scarf collection.
[3]
- 1981 ? Launch of the Must de Cartier and Santos de Cartier perfumes.
- 1982 ? Launch of the first New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and stones.
- 1983 ? Creation of the Collection Ancienne Cartier (later the Cartier Collection) to record and illustrate how the jeweller's art and its history have evolved. Creation of the Panthere de Cartier watch.
- 1984 ? Launch of the second New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and pearls. Creation of the Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain in
Jouy-en-Josas
.
- 1985 ? Launch of the Pasha de Cartier watch.
[3]
- 1986 ? Launch of the third New Jewellery collection on the theme of the panther.
- 1987 ? Launch of the Panthere de Cartier perfume. Creation of Les Maisons de Cartier tableware (porcelain, crystal and silver).
- 1988 ? Launch of the fourth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Egypt.
- 1989 ? Launch of the Tank Americaine watch.
The Art of Cartier
, the first major retrospective in Paris, was held at the
Petit Palais
.
- 1995 ? Creation of the Pasha C watch in steel. Launch of the So Pretty de Cartier perfume.
- 1996 ? Creation of the Tank Francaise watch collection. Launch of the sixth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Creation. Creation of the Tank ring.
[3]
- 1997 ? Cartier celebrated its 150th anniversary with creations including a necklace in the form of a serpent, paved with diamonds and set with two pear-cut emeralds of 205 and 206 carats (41.2 g).
[3]
- 1998 ? Creation of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris Fine Watch collection.
- 1999 ? Creation of the Paris Nouvelle Vague Cartier jewellery collection, inspired by Paris.
- 2001 ? Creation of the Delices de Cartier jewellery collection. Launch of the Roadster watch.
[3]
- 2003 ? Launch of the Le Baiser du Dragon and Les Delices de Goa jewellery collections.
- 2007 ? Launch of Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.
[3]
- 2016 ? Launch of the Drive de Cartier watch.
Environmental rating
[
edit
]
In December 2018,
World Wide Fund for Nature
(WWF) released a report assigning environmental ratings to 15 major watch manufacturers and jewelers in Switzerland.
[61]
[62]
Cartier (being a subsidiary of the Swiss
Richemont Group
) was ranked No. 2 among the 15 manufacturers and assigned an average environmental rating of "Upper Midfield," suggesting the manufacturer has taken first actions addressing the impact of its manufacturing activities on the environment and climate change.
[61]
According to Cartier's official company document, the company is committed to conduct businesses "in an environmentally responsible manner" and "minimising negative environmental impacts."
[63]
Notable patrons and owners
[
edit
]
Numerous royal and aristocratic figures have adorned Cartier's clientele.
[64]
At the turn of the 20th century, Cartier held the prestigious position as the official supplier to
King Edward VII
of England,
Alphonse XIII
of Spain,
George I
of
Greece
,
Tsar Nicholas II
,
Queen Marie
of
Romania
,
Elisabeth of Belgium
,
King Zog of Albania
,
King Chulalongkorn of Siam
, and other notable figures in
Portugal
,
Serbia
,
Egypt
, and
Monaco
. More recently, in 1997, the Prince of Wales became an esteemed patron of Cartier.
[65]
From its inception,
Empress Eugenie
was a valued client of
Louis-Francois Cartier
and Alfred,
[65]
which solidified the reputation of the jeweler.
[66]
Princess Mathilde, a relative of Napoleon I and cousin of
Emperor Napoleon III
, made her initial purchase in 1856 and maintained her loyalty as a customer.
[66]
The diamond tiara adorned with olive leaf motifs that
Princess Marie Bonaparte
wore highlighted the splendor of the Bonaparte family.
[67]
She wore Cartier jewelry during her marriage to
Prince George of Greece
.
[65]
An opulent diamond necklace with red hues was commissioned for
Maharaja Bhupinder Singh
of
Patiala
, who presented it to his maharani. The Duke of Windsor commissioned jewelry for Wallis Simpson, including a "Flamingo" brooch, a "Draperie" necklace, and a three-dimensional "panther". Grace Kelly possessed a diverse collection of jewelry, including her engagement ring from
Prince Rainier III
in
1955
, princely emblems, various brooches, and clips she wore at the birth of
Prince Albert
. The
Duchess of Cambridge
wore a Cartier tiara from
1936
on her wedding day, which was originally commissioned by
King George VI
for his wife and later gifted to Elizabeth on her 18th birthday.
[68]
[69]
Pierre Cartier sold the "Hope" blue diamond to an American customer,
Evalyn Walsh McLean
, and counted actress
Eve Lavalliere
and socialite
Doris Duke
among his clients. La Belle Otero wore Cartier jewelry and famously said, "A man with an account at Cartier cannot be considered ugly." Wearing Cartier during the
Belle Epoque
was a status symbol. Liz Taylor, who wrote
My Love Affair With Jewelry
about her collection, regularly received gifts from
Richard Burton
and
Mike Todd
. The diamond necklace that Burton repurchased from Cartier was named "Taylor ? Burton". Other celebrities like
Gloria Swanson
and
Maria Felix
were also loyal clients,
[65]
[70]
along with
Brigitte Bardot
and
Yves Montand
who gave gifts from Cartier.
Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria wore Cartier watches during his rule within the
Medellin Cartel
in Colombia.
In the 1988 film
Wall Street
,
Michael Douglas
, a symbol of the yuppie style, proudly wore a gold "Santos" watch.
[71]
[72]
In cinema, the "Love" bracelet adorned Elizabeth Taylor's wrist in 1972 in
Ash Wednesday
, and
Sharon Stone
wore it in the 1998 film
Sphere
. On stage, it was the sole jewelry piece worn by Tina Turner during her 1983 comeback tour.
[73]
[74]
[75]
[76]
Use of the Cartier name in other products
[
edit
]
From 1976 to 2003, the company lent its name to special editions of several models of the luxury US automaker
Lincoln
, designing a Cartier edition of the 1976
Lincoln Continental Mark IV
,
[77]
the 1977?79
Lincoln Continental Mark V
,
[78]
[79]
the 1980?81
Lincoln Continental Mark VI
, and the 1982?2003
Lincoln Town Car
.
[80]
Books
[
edit
]
See also
[
edit
]
References
[
edit
]
- ^
a
b
"Cartier"
.
Forbes
. Archived from
the original
on 2020-08-12.
- ^
"Company Overview of CARTIER International SNC"
.
Bloomberg
. Retrieved
2019-02-02
.
- ^
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
j
k
l
m
n
"Brand ? Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie"
.
www.hautehorlogerie.org
. Retrieved
2019-01-20
.
- ^
a
b
c
d
e
"Cartier"
.
Sotheby's
. Retrieved
2019-01-20
.
- ^
"Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA ? Home"
.
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. Retrieved
2019-01-20
.
- ^
a
b
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.
www.referenceforbusiness.com
. Retrieved
2019-02-02
.
- ^
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. Retrieved
2019-02-02
.
- ^
"Cartier jewels ? An expert guide | Christie's"
.
www.christies.com
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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.
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. 19 May 2017
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
"How Cartier Became A Serious Watchmaker?"
.
Archived
from the original on 2022-12-03
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Pitt, Martyn R.; Koufopoulos, Dimitrios (2012-03-28).
Essentials of Strategic Management
. SAGE.
ISBN
9781446290774
.
- ^
"The 2020 World's Most Valuable Brands"
.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Menkes, Suzy (2006-01-10).
"A ball for the 'king of jewellers'
"
.
The New York Times
.
Archived
from the original on 2014-07-17
. Retrieved
2012-03-14
.
A line-up of small rooms for special clients has original light oak wood paneling carved with garlands and hung with certificates from England's Edward VII (in 1905), through the king of Siam and Russian czars.
- ^
Prat, Veronique (2009-08-28).
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[Cartier jewels set in the Forbidden City] (in French).
Archived
from the original on 2014-02-19
. Retrieved
2012-03-14
.
- ^
"Rock star"
.
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. 2004-09-14. Archived from
the original
on 2012-03-13
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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, The Print, 5 Nov 2022.
- ^
a
b
c
"History ? Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie"
.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
"Cartier's Secrets of Mystery Clocks"
.
The New York Times
. 1981-03-26.
ISSN
0362-4331
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
"Historic Mystery Clocks Of Cartier Unveiled"
.
AUGUSTMAN.com
. 17 January 2018
. Retrieved
2019-01-20
.
- ^
"Roger Russell's Mystery Clock History Page"
.
Archived
from the original on 2004-06-05
. Retrieved
2008-03-09
.
- ^
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. 23 October 2012.
Archived
from the original on 2014-10-06
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
"The History of the Santos de Cartier"
.
The Watch Standard
. 2021-11-01
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Nadelhoffer, Hans (2007-10-18).
Cartier
. Chronicle Books.
ISBN
9780811860994
.
Archived
from the original on 2017-09-29.
- ^
Mun-Delsalle, Y.-Jean.
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Dunlap, David (2000-04-26).
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.
The New York Times
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
c
Goodman, George Jr. (1979-12-10).
"Robert Hocq, Cartier Executive, Is Killed by Automobile in Paris"
.
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.
ISSN
0362-4331
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
Friedman, Jane (1979-12-02).
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.
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.
ISSN
0362-4331
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
Cuff, Daniel F. (1988-04-28).
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.
The New York Times
.
ISSN
0362-4331
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
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.
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. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
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.
www.wineanorak.com
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
a
b
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.
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. 1983-05-13.
ISSN
0190-8286
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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.
Archived
from the original on October 20, 2016
. Retrieved
October 19,
2016
.
- ^
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Archived
from the original on 2012-07-31
. Retrieved
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.
- ^
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Who's Who in Fashion
. Bloomsbury Publishing USA.
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.
Archived
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- ^
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.
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.
- ^
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.
- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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from the original on 2016-10-26.
- ^
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.
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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from the original on 2016-10-26.
- ^
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.
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- ^
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.
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.
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- ^
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.
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- ^
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48°52′11″N
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48.86975°N 2.32222°E
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