"Everyone expected it to be a central European, Viennese-style cafe when it reopened," said Katerina, pulling a face. "A lot of people were furious that they have allowed these places to change." Katerina was my guide on this, my first visit to Prague and we were talking over lunch in a traditional Czech pub packed with a coach party of tourists. I had eaten at the Cafe Malostranska, now called "Square", the day before, knowing of its Kafka connection. The food was pan-European - tapas, pasta, fish and chips - and mine was very good. But the spirit of Franz K was definitely absent. I could have been in Barcelona or Newcastle-upon-Tyne.